Doesn't sound like a main relay.

- You CAN hear the fuel pump running for 2 seconds.

- Normally with main-relay problems, if it starts it'll keep running. (I know that's not absolute proof, but just saying it normally works that way.)

I don't really know about the location, other than the general area of above the driver's left knee. Somewhere in there...

 

Yah Jim, I have been reading about it a lot. I have no idea what might cause the car to stall and not start at all and make it start next day again with no problems only to stop again in a few miles. I have no idea, what might possibly causing this.
I just wanted to rule the main relay out before I get the car towed to the shop thats why I was asking.
Well if the weather is good then I will try to check the CEL codes with the paper clip I guess, the SCS connector is under the glove box.
I have till this saturday to figure out, else I am getting it towed.

 

On the connector, IF it still has the two pin connector it would be under the glove box. Look real good, if it has never been used it might be taped to the "holder". Sorry only have the 95 4 cyl as a ref on that.
Does not really sound like a main relay issue, sounds more like something in the ign system,,,,ICM, coil, ect, getting hot and giving up...cools off, car runs.
If you are not in a position to buy an $80 timing light, see what types of spark testers they have. Not a fan of the "clips" that hold a spark plug type thing to a ground but it might be less expensive. With the old Chevy, my timing light gets more use on it than all of the Honda's combined.

 

Thanks everyone for the help.
I was able to find the blue two pin SCS connector under the glovebox.
I shorted the ports with paper clips.
Put the key in ON position.
Here is what I got:

If the initial CEL which comes on when you put the key to position ON is to be taken into consideration, then it gives 9 long blinks and 2 short and keeps on repeating the same after a brief pause.
If the initial CEL if not taken into consideration, it gives 8 long blinks and 2 short blinks for the first time and gives 9 long blinks and 2 short blinks and keeps on repeating 9 long blinks and 2 short blinks.
I am not sure if I should take it as 8292 or 9200 code.

If it matters:
The SRS light blinks 8 long and 5 short blinks before giving a pause and being constantly ON. (SRS light has been ON since 3 months, thats the time I purchased the car).

The ABS light blinks 2 times and goes off.

The heater/ac fan and lights still works without the engine running. I didnt run it even for 5 secs though, I dont want to end up with a dead battery adding to frustration.


I tried to start it again, the engine fired and died within 2 secs and again same issue.

I have no idea what might be causing this, and I have to wait till weekend to get it towed to a shop, really cant afford to miss school and work right now.

I am pretty handy with wires and nuts and bolts, although I dont want to try something I dont know of.

I still have a doubt though, I remember disconnecting a harness off a security system reset switch(which is what everyones guess is) and reconnecting it back again on the day this started to happen. But I have no idea if the security system was ever active or not. I bought this car used and I have no contact with the previous owner.

I had asked a question about that button and a pilot lamp on the forum.
here is the link:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ad.php?t=35869

I am not sure if I can post the active link on this forum, but since its from the same site, I am posting the link.

Will disconnecting that harness and reconnecting it back would have caused the issue?
Well, I did drive about 30 miles after doing that on the same day.

If anyone can point me in the right direction, that would be great. I will try to get the timing light, from autozone by this friday evening. I just didnt want to spend on something that I wont be using, but I guess I will be needing that a lot.

 

Can you make it happen by wiggling the key? Flaky ignition switches aren't exactly rare.

 

I'll say code 92 because if it were 82 & 92 then it would keep repeating 82 & 92.

My list doesn't have a code 92, but I didn't have the V-6 supplement to the repair book. Code 90 is for a leak in the EVAP system but that wouldn't stop it from running. And my list doesn't have a code 2.

Active links to SELLING sites aren't allowed (unless they're a sponsor).

 

There is no code 82 on my list, so you have a CEL code 92. Since OBD1 method is more generic, that could be an OBD2 code P0441 (EVAP control system) or P1459 (EVAP Purge Flow Switch). Neither of these should cause your car to stall out. The EVAP system is to trap gas fumes, then releases them to burn in the engine.

The SRS code 8-5 is for an internal problem with the SRS control unit. The fix is to replace that control unit. It is pretty expensive for a new one, so a junkyard will be a better source. This would not cause your car to stall out.

Not sure what ABS code you are getting. A bad ABS will not cause the car to stall out/not start.

 

I read your other post, and think that you have an alarm system on your car. An alarm system that is not working properly can cause all kinds of problems. You should try to find the brains of it and figure out who made it. If you can contact the previous owner, they may be able to tell you.

When the car will not start, see if the blk/yel wire that goes to the distributor has 12V with the key in the II position to ground (I always use a valve cover bolt as my ground). You would need a volt meter to do this.

 

Here are the installation instructions for the 97 accord security system to give you an idea of how to find the control unit.

hondaautomotiveparts.com/instal/aii/pages/accord/1997/18016_01.html

 

Yup I have been reading about code 92, I can see no where about code 82.
And the CEL was ON before this happened so I do not think that the EVAP control system would have anything with the car not starting.
I will have to go under the dash tomorrow then and check if I can figure out the alarm system or at least get the name/model of it. I have no idea where to find it under the dash. I will give it a try though.

I contacted the previous owner, he has no idea about the alarm system, he said it must have been there before he purchased the car. The car was once broken into, so he had to change the ignition key. May be at that time they deactivated the alarm and by disconnecting and reconnecting I might have done something to tease it.

The battery has 12.5 volts while the car is not running(of course).
Wiggling the key doesnt make a difference.
Tried pressing the gas pedal while starting, no good.
Removed the gas cap and tightened it again and again. no good.


I will check with a multimeter on the distributor wire tomorrow. For that do I have to remove the distributor cap? or is it in the harness that connects to the distributor, I see two yellow and a green cable going there. I cant test right now, its too cold and windy out there. I will post tomorrow again after I check the stuff you have mentioned.



PS: Sorry Jim I had kind of hijacked the DIY thread because I was getting a little impatient, I will be continuing here.