98 accord 4cyl wont crank
#1
98 accord 4cyl wont crank
I just replaced the fuel pump, i was having problems starting for the past few weeks and stalling in a few occasions.
After replacing it started fine,drove for about 4 miles, came back to the house. about 10-15 minutes later tryied to start it and it wont crank.
i can hear the pump priming and the starter solenoid clicking,my batt doesnt seem to be low on charge.
Im almost sure they gave me the wrong pump. a 6 cyl pump.
this is our only car and im in the military(so im broke) so i cant afford to take it to the shop. any help?
After replacing it started fine,drove for about 4 miles, came back to the house. about 10-15 minutes later tryied to start it and it wont crank.
i can hear the pump priming and the starter solenoid clicking,my batt doesnt seem to be low on charge.
Im almost sure they gave me the wrong pump. a 6 cyl pump.
this is our only car and im in the military(so im broke) so i cant afford to take it to the shop. any help?
#3
If you hear the fuel pump prime, each time you turn keyswitch to On when no-start is presented, you likely have fuel pressure and fuel pump is not the problem.
Suggest removing a spark plug lead, inserting screwdriver and hold shaft of screwdriver close to good ground. Turn engine over while holding the insulated handle of screwdriver and watching closely for spark to jump from screwdriver to ground.
If no spark, the coil or ignitor are likely the problem. See following link for further diagnostics. Coil would be my first suspect, but either can be intermittent.
good luck
Suggest removing a spark plug lead, inserting screwdriver and hold shaft of screwdriver close to good ground. Turn engine over while holding the insulated handle of screwdriver and watching closely for spark to jump from screwdriver to ground.
If no spark, the coil or ignitor are likely the problem. See following link for further diagnostics. Coil would be my first suspect, but either can be intermittent.
good luck
#4
im sorry, this is my first post. i am currently station at ft hood Tx and about to pcs to ft carson Co.
I do have one. and thankfuly i know how to use it.Im an helicopter electrician.
Like I said, the car was running fine even after the fuel pump change. tryied to start it and now it wont crank. all i hear is the solenoid clicking
if im right and i got a 6cyl pump what you guys think might be the problem?
i checked all the fuses,the batt has good voltage, starter solenoid engages but starter will not turn.
i appreciate the help
I do have one. and thankfuly i know how to use it.Im an helicopter electrician.
Like I said, the car was running fine even after the fuel pump change. tryied to start it and now it wont crank. all i hear is the solenoid clicking
if im right and i got a 6cyl pump what you guys think might be the problem?
i checked all the fuses,the batt has good voltage, starter solenoid engages but starter will not turn.
i appreciate the help
#5
I'm going with the starter is/has given out. There are two wires to it, the large one is right from the battery and should read battery voltage at all times (~12.5v). The small wire (spade terminal ??) should have battery voltage when you try to start.....con you confirm this, yes you will need a helper to turn the key to start as you measure the voltage.
So if you are getting 12v to the small wire when turning the key to start and the starter is not spinning the engine over.....well you've got a bad starter. You might be able to tap on the starter with a screw driver handle and get it to work for "x" period of time.....once, week, month - who knows.
Again I'm reading this as the starter is NOT spining the engine over.
So if you are getting 12v to the small wire when turning the key to start and the starter is not spinning the engine over.....well you've got a bad starter. You might be able to tap on the starter with a screw driver handle and get it to work for "x" period of time.....once, week, month - who knows.
Again I'm reading this as the starter is NOT spining the engine over.
#6
Another poorman test - yes making fun of myself. Test the voltage of the battery with no load - Key Off.....should be 12.5 volts, then as you try to start.....what do you get?
This does not cover the "amps" of the battery but might give some insight.
This does not cover the "amps" of the battery but might give some insight.
#7
yeah already checked the voltage. seems like everything is fine.
tried tapping the starter too but no luck. didnt even tried to turn the flywheel. i just hear the solenoid.
i just started taking the starter out. i'll apply batt power to it once is out and see if its even turning.
i'll be back with an update asap. thanks guys
tried tapping the starter too but no luck. didnt even tried to turn the flywheel. i just hear the solenoid.
i just started taking the starter out. i'll apply batt power to it once is out and see if its even turning.
i'll be back with an update asap. thanks guys
#9
There's a couple different types of starters, hope I'm not confusing between them. The solenoid that throws the pinion gear is also supposed to close the circuit for the BIG (+) from the battery to the motor. The contacts for that solenoid can wear down or get messed up from arcing. Also, the motor brushes (inside the motor) can get worn down.
Either way, it's a decision to get a new/rebuild starter assembly, or try to find the little parts (contacts or brushes). Heli-electrician for processors & solid-state stuff, or some experience taking electric motors apart?
Either way, it's a decision to get a new/rebuild starter assembly, or try to find the little parts (contacts or brushes). Heli-electrician for processors & solid-state stuff, or some experience taking electric motors apart?
#10
Might have to take something back...
Solenoid doesn't throw the pinion out, it just closes the big circuit. Still, solenoid contacts or motor brushes are good suspects.
Auto vs. manual transmission have different starters. What's yours?
Some parts, like brush assemblies, are "theoretically" available from the dealer. That is, if the dealer decides to stock them.
Solenoid doesn't throw the pinion out, it just closes the big circuit. Still, solenoid contacts or motor brushes are good suspects.
Auto vs. manual transmission have different starters. What's yours?
Some parts, like brush assemblies, are "theoretically" available from the dealer. That is, if the dealer decides to stock them.
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xang0
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07-06-2009 03:22 PM