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99 Accord DX 2.3L - Head Gasket Endeavor

  #1  
Old 09-13-2013, 04:39 PM
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Default 99 Accord DX 2.3L - Head Gasket Endeavor

I purchased this car about a week ago with 159K miles, and needless to say, I was scammed. Anyway, not here to talk about that.

Head Gasket needs to be replaced, but I need some suggestions.

First - I'm not a novice, I'd call myself an enthusiastic amateur. I need a decent torque wrench for the occasional repair. I hope someone can suggest something for under $50?

Second - The Head Gasket itself. OEM, aftermarket? Does it matter? I'll need a valve cover gasket, will I need any others? Is there a "kit" so to speak. I'd like to avoid messing with the valve train if possible. It was running smooth before, never shut off by itself.

Third - Correct me if I'm wrong, sounds like a great opportunity to do water pump and timing/balance belts as well. That said, from the few things I've read and videos I've watch, it seems somewhat divided as to weather or not it's necessary to change the tensioners/springs. The belt made have been changed recently enough and it not be required, but I should at least take a look.

Last - I've watched a couple videos, and while involved, this job looks pretty straight forward. I'll check the head bolts, hopefully won't need them. But from those of you that have done this, is there any particular problem areas I should watch for? Tips/Tricks on the job itself?

Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 09-13-2013, 06:30 PM
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First, the inexpensive click-type torque wrenches work well enough. Try harbor freight, ebay for about $15.

Second Head Gasket - I've used Felpro on several headgaskets and like their product. Very similar to OEM.

Third Water Pump/Timing Belt - Yes, you need to remove timing belt and balance shaft belt to do this job, so replacing TB & WP is good idea.

One bolt on back center of head is slightly different than the rest. Be sure not to get it in wrong hole!.

One tip if you're doing this job solo. I used wood shims on each end of motor to "land" the cylinder head just above the gasket. It would be easy reaching into engine compartment to accidentally drop head on gasket and ding the gasket. Shims make landing safe, and you can lift each head end separately and land the head on the guide dowels.

It took me a long hard day to do this job, but w/ frequent stops and review of shop manual. If you don't have one, get one. Honda is best, but aftermarket is better than none. Check Online Manuals post in DIY forum for a download, but I think you have to burn a CD to access.

good luck
 
  #3  
Old 09-13-2013, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by TexasHonda
First, the inexpensive click-type torque wrenches work well enough. Try harbor freight, ebay for about $15.

Second Head Gasket - I've used Felpro on several headgaskets and like their product. Very similar to OEM.

Third Water Pump/Timing Belt - Yes, you need to remove timing belt and balance shaft belt to do this job, so replacing TB & WP is good idea.

One bolt on back center of head is slightly different than the rest. Be sure not to get it in wrong hole!.

One tip if you're doing this job solo. I used wood shims on each end of motor to "land" the cylinder head just above the gasket. It would be easy reaching into engine compartment to accidentally drop head on gasket and ding the gasket. Shims make landing safe, and you can lift each head end separately and land the head on the guide dowels.

It took me a long hard day to do this job, but w/ frequent stops and review of shop manual. If you don't have one, get one. Honda is best, but aftermarket is better than none. Check Online Manuals post in DIY forum for a download, but I think you have to burn a CD to access.

good luck
Thanks, I plan on giving myself two weekends. One to take it down, label and organize all parts, and the next weekend to put it back together. So should be enough time.
 
  #4  
Old 09-13-2013, 11:57 PM
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RobinsonRicer provided a link to the 6th gen FSM in this thread:

Hose above lower radiator? (01 LX)

It works; I downloaded it at the time. Big file.

Check the head for flatness or have a machine shop check it.
 
  #5  
Old 09-14-2013, 10:12 AM
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One thing I failed to mention. Highly recommend having the head rebuilt; cleaned, new stems seals, valves reseated, head checked for cracks, and finally (most important step) shaved to perfectly flat for best sealing on new head gasket.

good luck
 
  #6  
Old 09-14-2013, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by TexasHonda
One thing I failed to mention. Highly recommend having the head rebuilt; cleaned, new stems seals, valves reseated, head checked for cracks, and finally (most important step) shaved to perfectly flat for best sealing on new head gasket.

good luck
I certainly plan on having the head checked out for wharpage and machined if needed. However how necessary is the other portion you're referring to? I'm trying expand my knowledge some by doing this myself, but also trying to save costs as well. I've found how to test the head bolts to see if they can be reused, and will do this if possible. I know some people are on the fence about this as well.

Thanks.
 
  #7  
Old 09-14-2013, 10:47 AM
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You will need to inquire w/ machine shop about cost of various options. I paid about $250 for complete service here in Houston. You could probably save a few bucks by eliminated valve reseating and new stem seals.

I also realized I must have spent most of 2 days, since I pulled head, sent to machine shop, and installed next weekend.

Some under the car work is necessary to access intake manifold braces and wire harness supports. I pulled the intake manifold, but it may be possible to save some effort and leave approximately in place (slightly rearward).

good luck
 
  #8  
Old 09-14-2013, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by TexasHonda
You will need to inquire w/ machine shop about cost of various options. I paid about $250 for complete service here in Houston. You could probably save a few bucks by eliminated valve reseating and new stem seals.

I also realized I must have spent most of 2 days, since I pulled head, sent to machine shop, and installed next weekend.

Some under the car work is necessary to access intake manifold braces and wire harness supports. I pulled the intake manifold, but it may be possible to save some effort and leave approximately in place (slightly rearward).

good luck
Sir, I'm in Houston too. I would REALLY like to know where you got it all done for $250. A video I watched mentioned the same about the intake manifold.
 
  #9  
Old 09-14-2013, 12:25 PM
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Just me but when looking for/getting the gaskets.....most major brands (felpro, victor reinz - the two I personally trust) offer "head sets".

In the "headset" you should have all of the gaskets/seals needed for this job. Pull the stem seals from the set and when you drop the head off at the shop leave them the seals.
 
  #10  
Old 09-14-2013, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by poorman212
Just me but when looking for/getting the gaskets.....most major brands (felpro, victor reinz - the two I personally trust) offer "head sets".

In the "headset" you should have all of the gaskets/seals needed for this job. Pull the stem seals from the set and when you drop the head off at the shop leave them the seals.
Thanks poorman. I was getting to that question. Seems most people like felpro.
 

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