I'll check the ground. As for a donor don't have one or access to one. But do greatly thank you for the help. Guess I'll have to pay the piper on this one.

 

The dealer should be able to provide you the Immobilizer Brake Code for no charge if you furnish proof of ownership. That way you can confirm it is an issue with the immobilizer system.

 

I'll ask tomorrow at work. Thanks will update when I can.

 

Take a look at ground G101 anyways first.

 

Ok checked ground cleaned and tighten no go . Talked to service center would give code with Vin called left message didn't call me back. That sucks.

 

I got brake code car started now what is next. Will start with both keys. How many starts will I get? Started 6 times total.

 

1. Just to confirm, for each of the 6 starts, you did not have to re-input the immobilizer brake code again; correct?

If so, depending on the ECM/PCM, it may give you 10 free starts (some ECM/PCMs do not give free starts) before re-inputting the immobilizer brake code or the following.

2. The next step would be to either test the immobilizer system wires between the receiver unit and the ECM/PCM to try to see if they are communicating. I would have to think up a few tests.

and/or

you can have the dealer try to reprogram the keys and ECM/PCM for the immobilizer system.

3. If the wiring or the receiver unit is not at fault, and reprogramming your existing ECM/PCM doesn't work, then a replacement ECM/PCM may be needed.

 

Up to 8 starts over an hour only entered code the first time.

 

Testing wiring at the Immobilizer Receiver Unit (located on steering column).

Backprobing may be more effective in the following tests. Backprobing is either using a backprobe set or using a thin needle or something and making contact with the metal terminal of the connector without piercing the wire in the back of the still connected connector. Care must be taken to ensure that the wiring does not get damaged. You can use something like a T pin, available at Walmart, etc., and backprobe. These pictures are just to give a picture of the concept of backprobing without piercing any wires.

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...%5D-t-pins-jpg

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...back-probe-jpg

(Test for ground source from Ground G101 through wire) - At the 5-pin connector to the receiver unit, test for continuity to body ground at terminal no. 4 (where the Brn/Blk wire is).
To test for continuity, set to either the "ohms" or the setting it will beep when you hold the two leads together.

• If your meter beeps, it means you have continuity.
• If it is on ohms scale, you will have continuity when it reads close to 0 ohms.
• If it doesn't beep , shows OL (open line) or a 1 (infinity ohms); it means you don't have continuity.

Don’t turn on ignition for this continuity test. You can either unplug the 5-pin connector and test the Brn/Blk wire or backprobe. There should be continuity to ground.

(Tests for signals between immobilizer receiver unit and ECM/PCM):
1. At the 5-pin connector to the receiver unit, backprobe terminal no. 1 (where the Yel/Blk wire is). Set the multimeter for voltage test.

With a voltmeter, touch the voltmeter's red lead to the Yel/Blk wire and the voltmeter's black lead to body ground (for example, a metal bracket on the car, etc.) to test.

With the ignition in ON or START, is there power at the Yel/Blk wire?

2. If there is power at the Yel/Blk wire, then backprobe terminal no. 3 (where the blue wire is).

With a voltmeter, touch the voltmeter's red lead to the Blu wire and the voltmeter's black lead to body ground to test.

With the ignition in ON or START, is there power at the Blue wire?

3. If there is power at the Blue wire, then backprobe terminal no. 2 (where the red wire is).

I am not sure whether the encoded signal from the receiver unit’s red wire will be power (+) or ground (-) when trying to start the car.

With a voltmeter, touch the voltmeter's red lead to the red wire and the voltmeter's black lead to body ground to test.

Either way, with the ignition in ON or START, is there a reading at the Red wire using the voltmeter?

 

Thanks that's beyond me. I'm going to take it to the dealer. Just don't understand why it runs now with original keys brake code put in.