So, after over a month of no issues, two days ago I got more weirdness. First the car starts to stall (RPMs dropped, dash lights wavered) then recovered and kept going. 5 minutes later it dies completely, then restarts fine. Problem got worse as driving continued, until finally I couldn't get it running til I let it sit for 5 minutes. The dying behavior seeming electrical, like a switch being dropped. So today, I am on the highway going 70, engine starts to waver, then minute later all cuts out. I pull over, let sit for a minute, then try to start. I get a electrical fizzle sound as I try to start. Then I turn the key to 0, wait, then slowly the key to I(no lights), then II(no lights), no dash lights come on until I turn the key to start(it never did this before). 3 hours later after multiple phone calls and a tow home, I believe this is the ignition switch finally dying, as I have read here http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/start...ignitionswitch. Going to do the procedure shown there to remove the switch and pop it out, looks like thats the likely thing.
Going to call around tomorrow and check the part stores :nuts:

Anybody have ideas one way or another? I will update later if replacing this works. My car wasn't part of the recall, sadly, already checked on that last time.

*Important, I am not getting the check engine light coming on at all until I get the key to start... I am thinking this might be an ECU issue, though I have read that Honda computers very rarely die. How do I know if its the ECU and/or the ignition switch?

 

Once you open the steering column & get to the back of the ignition switch, check continuity through the 3 circuits at each switch position. It really sounds like an ignition switch problem.

The oil-pressure warning lamp is powered through the ignition switch INDEPENDANTLY of the ECU. If that lamp stays out until it & the CEL come on together, that really points to the ignition switch.

 

my daughter has a 98 accord that had this same problem after many trips to the shop and nothing i replaced the fuel pump and still did it i replaced the fuel pump moduale under the dash 5 min project and $50 from honda

 

my daughters 98 accord was not coming out of gear automatic when started and brake applied so i replaced the white electric switch on the side of the shifter that is a brake lock release that didnt work now every time we have to put a key in the slot in the console and push down and release it to put it into gear is there any other swithes under dash that powers this switch?

 

Turbo70, do the brake lights work? That gearshift interlock works off the same switch (at the brake pedal) as the stop lights.

 

Can I replace the ignition switch in the 99 ex without removing the air bag? I am hoping I can just remove the bottom cover of the column to get at it. If you have a link with step by step diagram would be great, please post. If I have to do the airbag, that might be beyond my abilities.
Thx

 

I don't have instructions any more (sold that Helm book). But I'm quite sure you don't have to mess with the airbags. Honda normally puts all the airbag stuff in YELLOW wiring harness bundles. DON'T TOUCH THAT STUFF so the bag doesn't go off in your face.

 

To replace the switch, do I need to remove the steering wheel? Or can I just remove the bottom cover of the column? I am considering taking it in to the dealership instead, as the interlock replacement is covered by recall... and just paying a little extra labor cost to also replace the switch ($45 max labor, likely half that, plus $60 for the part) Also, is there a chance this is actually the ECU gone out? I read that it very rarely dies...

 

I think you don't have to remove the steering wheel, but like I said I'm not completely sure. I didn't have to do that while I owned the 98.

 

So, after reading multiple directions for replacing the ignition switch say you must remove the steering wheel to get at it, and if you have an air bag to take it to a dealer or cert honda repair, I decided to take it to the dealer. My interlock is covered under recall, so I asked them to do the interlock(free), and while they were there anyway, replace the switch ($60 part + $45 for 1/2hr labor). Saved $15 on the part vs part store, and... It runs great now! Plus I have a new interlock that I didn't really need, but now it will last that much longer.