When the AC is not functioning nothing is spinning, neither fans or the AC clutch.

 

When the expansion valve is bad and it causes the evaporator to freeze the evaporator thermostat will turn off the compressor, and thereby the fan, to prevent damage to the system. After the evaporator has cooled the system will turn back on.

 

Please ignore the last post, because you don't know what is causing the a/c to not work. You can not assume the expansion valve without doing testing.

The next step for me would be at the compressor. Just make sure you are not getting voltage to the compressor. Also unplug the pressure switch and verify you have 12V to ground (use valve cover bolt or negative battery cable) on the blue/red wire. You can also try continuity to ground on the yellow/green wire.

 

How can I check it to see if it is bad?

 

The electrical tests are the easiest to figure, and I recommend you start with them.

To figure out how the system is operating/performing, you need an a/c pressure manifold to measure the low and high pressure sides of the system.

Most DIYers have a volt meter, and a volt meter can help narrow down why the a/c and cooling fans are not turning on. An a/c manifold is an item most people don't have and not the place where I would start your diagnosis with the issue you are having.

 

Does anyone know where I can find a digital manual? Where should I start testing. My mechanic is having a similar issue with another ladies civic.

 

My suggestion on a manual would be to buy one from "automanualsource". Download is like ~$22 and a CD shipped is ~$27

 

So per the Manual I have checked all the electrical under the hood. The only issue that I found was when I checked the resistance of the compressor. I am not an electrical guru by any means, but when I checked the blue wire coming off the compressor and grounded to the body of the compressor it would spike and quickly go to 0. When I grounded to the negative of the battery I got .17.

My only concern is if I jump the compressor relay the air kicks on like it should and actually blows cold. So to me it would seem that I am not getting the signal to tell the compressor to switch on.

 

So I went to get a gauge set to check my pressures, drove all the way to the store and on my way back the AC cut on and started blowing cold. I assume if it sits for a little bit it will return to not working. My question is, if I can get it working and hook up the gauges what will I be looking for to see if it's the evap portion of the system?

 

Are your resistance readings in ohms or milliohms?

For resistance testing, turn the meter to the lowest ohms setting. Touch the leads of the meter together. That reading (should be a very low number) is the number for "zero" resistance to ground.

Sounds like you may need to clean up the - battery post and connector, since you the resistance is slightly higher. This isn't necessary, but always a good idea to ensure you have good electrical connections.

The pressures will vary depending the outside air temperature, relative humidity, and the temperature at the vents. If you give me those numbers, I can give you an approximate range for the two pressure readings.

Run the test in the shade. Open the hood and doors. Air set to max cool fan at max speed. Recirculate set to on. Mode set to vent. RPM at 1500. No passengers in the vehicle.