ACis not cold enough (Accord 2001)
#1
ACis not cold enough (Accord 2001)
Dear All,
My Honda accord 2001 is not getting enough cold.
Recently i replaced false fuse, changed compressor bearing, cleaned condenser, checked leakage and refilled gas but no luck.
For your valuable suggestions
Thanks
Asif
My Honda accord 2001 is not getting enough cold.
Recently i replaced false fuse, changed compressor bearing, cleaned condenser, checked leakage and refilled gas but no luck.
For your valuable suggestions
Thanks
Asif
#2
How often is the compressor clutching in and out?
R134A while being a good refrigerant, seems to like to be overcharged just a little bit. This is just my personal observation. I have lived in Florida all of my life and all of my cars liked to be just a little overcharged. Which in most cases means that you have a dirty indoor coil. So if the compressor is clutching in and out a lot, try cleaning the evap coil first then if that does not work, then try adding a little more refrigerant. I may get burned for this suggestion, but this is just my observation.
R134A while being a good refrigerant, seems to like to be overcharged just a little bit. This is just my personal observation. I have lived in Florida all of my life and all of my cars liked to be just a little overcharged. Which in most cases means that you have a dirty indoor coil. So if the compressor is clutching in and out a lot, try cleaning the evap coil first then if that does not work, then try adding a little more refrigerant. I may get burned for this suggestion, but this is just my observation.
#4
To assess performance you need to take system pressures (ac manifold gauge set) w/ engine running about 1500 rpm, max fan, recirculate, and car in shade. Low side should pull down near or below 30 psi before compressor kicks off. High side should peak roughly 2.5*ambient air temp in front of condensor in degF (90F= 225 psi).
Low performance usually means undercharge, but can be caused by overcharge. If compessor is cycling on/off frequently, the charge is likely low.
Inspecting sight gauge can provide some info: Clear stream w/ few bubbles means adequate charge, Lots of bubbles means low charge.
good luck
Low performance usually means undercharge, but can be caused by overcharge. If compessor is cycling on/off frequently, the charge is likely low.
Inspecting sight gauge can provide some info: Clear stream w/ few bubbles means adequate charge, Lots of bubbles means low charge.
good luck
#5
Thanks for all replies.
Radiator fan working fine.
compressor cycling on/off frequency is about 15 sec.
there was oil leak thru compressor before and righted by reducing freon level.
I will try by cleaning evap coil.
Thanks
Asif
Radiator fan working fine.
compressor cycling on/off frequency is about 15 sec.
there was oil leak thru compressor before and righted by reducing freon level.
I will try by cleaning evap coil.
Thanks
Asif
#6
Feel the AC return line at the firewall. It should be cold and sweating moisture. If not, charge may be slightly low. If cold to the touch and sweating, you may be reheating cooled air w/ AC being routed over the heater core by faulty blend door or heater core control valve.
good luck
good luck
#8
Dear All,
I went to different technicians, three of them suggested same which i did before and finally identified and fixed
1) Fan was working fine
2) Compressor cycling on/off frequency OK
3) Freon level Okey
4) Returning line (pipe) was cooling perfectly
It was the bad Heating/Cooling control motor, which passed heat air to reduce cooling.
Thank you all for your support.
Asif
I went to different technicians, three of them suggested same which i did before and finally identified and fixed
1) Fan was working fine
2) Compressor cycling on/off frequency OK
3) Freon level Okey
4) Returning line (pipe) was cooling perfectly
It was the bad Heating/Cooling control motor, which passed heat air to reduce cooling.
Thank you all for your support.
Asif
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06-14-2013 05:20 PM