Hi,

I've got a '03 EX Coupe with an aftermarket radio and harness.

Specifically:
-PIONEER AVH-4000NEX DOUBLE DIN 7"
-Metra 99-7803G Single/Double DIN Installation Kit
-Metra 88-00-7803 Lower Pocket for Select 2003-07 Honda Accord Vehicles (Black)

I got it installed at a Car Stereo shop that a colleague recommended. Everything seemed to be cool and I loved/love the stereo. But...everytime I went out of town and didn't run it for more than 3 days, it went dead. I replaced the battery with an Optima YellowTop battery. I've replaced the alternator (although I don't know the strength of it). Still dies.

I finally took it into the dealer today to do a parasitic draw test. The immediate culprit was the circuit with the stereo. I should have written it down but without the radio fuse it drew power in the lower double digits (amps?) and with the fuse it drew over 100. The guy at the dealer offered to put in a new factory stereo for $4300 (not joking but he was also not expecting me to say yes). The more practical tip is that he showed me which fuse to pull if I wasn't going to be driving it for a few days.

I feel like there's got to be a better way. There's no spliced wires or anything. It's all a harness. Is it possible that the harness is defective?

I could get a factory stereo on Craigslist and just restore it back to normal. I don't really want to go back to that though. I can also just remove the fuse but that also seems really ridiculous.

Any insight is super appreciated.

 

They measure current in amps or milliamps. Normal draw on the battery is low milliamps say less than 0.5 milliamps. Anything higher is drawing excessive current.

Can you tell us what fuse they told you to pull?

 

If you can find the fuse that the parasitic draw is running through and either pull it or install a switch inline so you can directly turn it off during your travels you should eliminate the dead battery scenario.

 

Fuse #40

 

There isn't a Fuse No. 40 listed either under-hood or under-dash. Check the numbering again.

 

There are a number of items that are powered/protected by that fuse. You really should try to narrow down the component drawing amps before replacing anything.

I'd suggest to hook up your volt meter for a parasitic amp draw test. Verify you are drawing excessive current. Then unplug each component on that circuit until the amps drop to normal.

Here are some videos on diagnosing the component.


Verify you are doing the test properly by pulling the radio fuse. Then unplug the stereo to verify that is your problem.