Is check engine light on or D4 light flashing? If neither, electrical problems are less likely since most are monitiored by obd2 system. If check engine light is on, have auto parts store read the codes. Write them down (Pnnnn) and post them for additional help.

There are a large number of possibilities (mostly hydraulic faults which can be fixed easily) for "slippage". When does slippage occur; at shifts, upon starting from stop, etc.

Has any work been done on engine throttle body before these problems started. Adjustment of throttle control cable can affect shift quality (flares or rpm increase at shift, eg slippage).

good luck

 

The check engine light does not come on however when I bought the car a couple of years ago I let one of my friends check it out and he said they may have taken a bolt out that prevents the check engine light from coming on to hide problems the car may have. At the time I wasn't sure if he was correct or if that was even possible. I guess he said something like when you put the key in all the lights are supposed to come on on the dash?? Anyways, the D4 light does not flash. As far as the engine goes the only thing I got done was getting the valve cover seals replaced.

The car slips only when shifting into 3rd gear. Do auto parts stores charge for checking codes?

 

The check engine light should come on for 2-3 secs and go off (in no codes) when keyswitch is turned from Off to On position. If you don't see the light come on at all when keyswitch is turned to On, it is likely someone removed the gauge panel and removed the small Check Engine Light bulb.

If yes, you can still check for codes w/ the OBD2 connector to see if there are any codes set.

good luck

 

When I turn the keyswitch from the Off to On position the only light that comes on is the battery light and it stays on until I start the car. Since this is the case, you're saying I would be unable to get my car checked for codes? Is it possible the bulb burned out? Thanks for the help I really appreciate it.

 

Even if the bulb is out for the Check Engine Light, the car is OBD-II, the car can still be read/scan for any stored trouble codes via the OBD-II port (located behind the ashtray).

 

OBD2 scanner will read codes even w/ no check engine light present.

Yes, bulb could have burned out, but I'm betting it's been removed. Actually, i can't remember anyone every posting of Check Engine Light bulb failing. However if someone left CEL on all the time, it might have burnt out.

good luck

 

After finally obtaining a scanner and checking and posting codes in my other thread I have discovered a new code that has come up that I think may be related to the transmission problems.

New Code: P0740

Is this code indicating my transmission slipping problem and what can I do to fix it?

 

P0740 indicates the PCM detected excess slippage between engine and wheels, when the torque converter should have been locked preventing any slippage. This fault is usually a hydraulic fault in the lockup circuit preventing torque converter lockup. One possible easy fix is to remove and clean the lockup solenoid screens.

I don't know if a clutch pack slippage would cause the same fault, but it might.

Manual probably says something like "replace lockup solenoid, reset PCM, and run car. If code returns, repair transmission is fix.

I don't have a manual which specifically address P0740 for your car, but it's generally the same procedure across the one's I've read.

A "flare" or slippage of trans when upshifting is common in an aging transmission. It doesn't hurt anything and can be lived w/ for a long time. Slippage under load is different and will have to be addressed soon. My son drove a 97 Acura TL w/ P0740 for several yrs w/o problems (other than constant Check Engine Light). That is probably why CEL and D4 were disabled on your car.

good luck

 

I have an 09 accord. known for the valve seat issues in cylinder 4 causing plug to fowl. engine was misfiring. I replaced all plugs finding that #4 was the only one with real issues. saved 3 best looking plugs for future use. after the repair I got the battery light. having a fairly new battery I assumed the connection wasn't good after reconnecting the battery. I took a quick look and noticed some corrosion on wires just before terminal. figured I could wait and get it done on the weekend. then my transmission started acting wierd. got home and no reverse. vehicle has 200k on it but has shown no signs of trani issues until now. checked fluid looks good. after letting it sit for a minute I started it and it reversed for a bit then reverse went out again. I have it on a charger now. I am hopeful that charging and correcting connection issues will fix the issue. I was glad to find a thread possibly linking the transmission and battery power. wasn't sure my thoughts made any sense at all. again I remain hopeful that this will be an easy fix. will return to share what I find.

thank you

 

have an 09 accord. known for the valve seat issues in cylinder 4 causing plug to fowl. engine was misfiring. I replaced all plugs finding that #4 was the only one with real issues. saved 3 best looking plugs for future use. after the repair I got the battery light. having a fairly new battery I assumed the connection wasn't good after reconnecting the battery. I took a quick look and noticed some corrosion on wires just before terminal. figured I could wait and get it done on the weekend. then my transmission started acting wierd. got home and no reverse. vehicle has 200k on it but has shown no signs of trani issues until now. checked fluid looks good. after letting it sit for a minute I started it and it reversed for a bit then reverse went out again. I have it on a charger now. I am hopeful that charging and correcting connection issues will fix the issue. I was glad to find a thread possibly linking the transmission and battery power. wasn't sure my thoughts made any sense at all. again I remain hopeful that this will be an easy fix. will return to share what I find.

thank you