BAXA Trans Overhaul
I'm hoping to get some input on rebuilding my BAXA trans from a 2002 accord with 230k miles. It had been getting a little jerky on take off/2nd gear shift, and recently stopped locking up in top gear. It rapidly degenerated into free revving in top gear when warm(usually only after about 20 miles of travel), and generally jerky and erratic shifting. Teardown has revealed no metal internally, gears/brngs look great, but clutches look a little thin(only one was actually blackened). Haven't disassembled valve body, does this need complete disassembly and inspection, seeing as the internal cleanliness was so good? Is a new torque converter an automatic on the parts list? I've seen kits for around 275 bucks that have gskts, seals, friction plates(all my steels look good was thinking of re-using those). Any specifics to zero in on would be appreciated, I'm a seasoned mechanic(motorcycles, mostly), but have no experience with this particular unit, so hoping for some expertise here...also haven't gotten a manual yet, any freebies out there on the interwebz???
The free pdfs you can find are not great for the 99-02 accords. The best manual for your money will run $22 from automanualsource.com.
I'm not great with transmission rebuilds. Did you scan the PCM for engine & transmission codes? There was a decent video on youtube showing the teardown of an accord or odyssey transmission. Found the video:
I'm not great with transmission rebuilds. Did you scan the PCM for engine & transmission codes? There was a decent video on youtube showing the teardown of an accord or odyssey transmission. Found the video:
yeah, I've watched those, they give a pretty good overview on teardown, that was pretty straightforward. I'd like someone who really knows these units to give me the fine points while I'm in there...Valve body need full teardown and inspection even tho the internals look quite clean of metal/debris??? I was pretty amazed at how little there was...It did have one burnt clutch pack and some friction plates looking thinned out. Folks are saying to replace the metal plates, I've never done that before if they aren't worn and are flat and in spec. I'm not one to change parts unless they are out of spec...I ain't no parts changer, I'm a mechanic, dammit! As for codes, I had 0730,0740, 0780 I think...
I'd suggest a bit of reading - check a place called "sonnax"
The 740 is usually the death of these so if you are "going" in I'd be sure to replace the things that are needed to be sure you get the full benefit of being in there and doing what needs to be done.
The 740 is usually the death of these so if you are "going" in I'd be sure to replace the things that are needed to be sure you get the full benefit of being in there and doing what needs to be done.
Well, it's finally back on the road and working flawlessly(so far, at least only 25 mi. on test drive). Just did a rebuild kit with plates(incl. steels), rebuilt torque converter, RedLine D4 Synthetic ATF(at son's insistence) total cost for parts around 400.00. There's a fair amount of precision measuring and shimming and adjusting to do if you follow the manual, but it wasn't too bad, I def. took my time on it. Re-used all the old solenoids, and sensors, so I guess the burnt 1st gear clutch pack was the main issue and possibly a clogged internal filter...Thanks for all the input!
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ivrex
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Nov 21, 2006 11:34 AM



