Remember, the BASE idle is when the IACV is unplugged and there's NO accessory loads at all. So if the radiator fan comes on, that extra alternator-load won't be compensated and the RPM will drop. You adjust for 550 when nothing else is running.

At first I thought that you were trying to set the operating idle at 550? Then the last post sounds like you got it all set up?? Hope it's good now.

 

OK to clarify; originally I had set the BASE idle to 750 (well just a little under 750) - don't ask me why. But then after reconnecting IACV, resetting ECU and driving around, I noticed the RPM fluctuate when slowing down to a stop and shifting gears from N -> D and vice versa.

Now (following TexasHonda's post #9), I have the BASE idle at 500 and I have no fluctuations when slowing to a stop. With everything connected (with/without A/C); when the car is warmed up, it idles at 750. I must admit that when adjusting the bypass and the FAN kicked in, it would mess with my setting. So I had to get it perfect while the FAN was off.

I don't know why setting the BASE idle to 750 was an issue and at 500 it is not. But it works fine now set at 550 (+/-50).

Isn't the BASE idle for 97 Accord LX 4CL 550 (+/- 50) though?

 

It will always try to control the operating idle to 750. So if the base idle is set to 750, then it will be controlling right at the point where the IACV is completely closed. That's a huge non-linearity in the control response.

You want the operating idle (750) to be controlled with the IACV open a certain percentage, kinda like a "sweet spot" in it's control range.

Setting the base idle at 550 vs. 500 is probably a tiny improvement & maybe not worth messing with it. If anything, the IACV might run out of range (100% open) when EVERYTHING is running all at once.

 

Thanks for the clarification JimBlake.

I was finally able to get to get exterior b pillar (Sash Center - 67366-SV4-003ZA). I am more than happy with the fix. My center sash used to be out of its grove. When my door was closed, the sash was sticking outwards. It wasn't flush with the rear door's. While at it, I removed the window run channel and cleaned it, lubricated it (I used Liquid Wrench Silicon Spray?). I must say, getting the run channel back in was a b***h.

In case anyone is interested - sorry I did not take pictures. Maybe when I am working on the passenger's, I will - removing the sash center requires pulling out the Window Run Channel (only from the top corner to the lower weatherstrip) to get to the screws. You do not need to remove the whole run channel. Behind the run channel will be three Phillips screws. Once screws are removed, pull up the sash (use some strength as it will be in there good) and take it out.

@TexasHonda, can you show me an example of the plastic strip you recommended? Doing a Google search for plastic strips returned results, but don't know which you are recommending. Didn't help much.

 

The plastic strips could be cut from any flat source material, such as side of plastic gallon container.

good luck

 

I have pretty much accomplished everything I set out to do on this thread. Thanks for the assistance guys.

Even though I fixed the cracked instrument cover (I used JB Weld), that did not stop the annoying wind that comes from there. I think it is because of the gap between the door panel and the instrument cover. I will keep trying to figure out a way to close it 'cause that wind is deafening.

Again thanks for all the help guys. You can mark this thread as solved.

 

That crack on the side of the dash should cause a wind noise. That rubber seal next to the crack should seal onto the door and block the wind.

That seal just presses over the pinch weld on the body, so you may want to try pushing that seal back. Maybe the object that made the crack knocked off the seal.

Silicone spray will dry up over time, so what you want to use is a light coating of silicone paste. The auto parts stores sell them in the little packets by the register as caliper grease for about $1.