A/C doesnt work, front seat belt problem (kind of)
#11
06-18-2009, 06:54 AM
RUN AWAY!
#12
06-18-2009, 12:01 PM
ok lets take this 1 at a time
1.. to replace the axle parts+ labor should be no more than 150-200 dollars each side' you can pick up an axle yourself and take it to the shop ,, they will charge you labor but you save money on the parts
2.... the seat belt itself is the only part that is life time warranty on the srs system, motors, control unit are not lifetime ,, you need to have a shop diagnose the issue ( honda dealer or a shop that specializes on hondas
3.......whoever told you that it would cost $180 to recharge the a/c system and $ 300 to retrofit it to r134a RUN AWAY FROM THAT SHOP,, it is absolutely a total RIP off,,,
i would convert it to r134a ,, all you need is to evacuate the system ( you need an a/c machine for that,, remove the valves in the a/c lines,install some r134a fitting, and charge it with r134a freon,,,,,,,trust me it works i have dona a **** load of them with no problems ,, doing so you have to put less r134a freon than the system requires i believe you car takes 30-32 oz of r12 i would put no more than 24 oz r134a,
the reason the compressor might not work is that system is out of freon,, it needs to be diagnosed ,,,
4....... the fan is inop.........the driver's side fan is the a/c fan,, the pass side is the main cooling fan
chk the fuses ,,if ok,, chk to see if you get power and ground at fan connector ,, if you do you got a bad motor ,, if you do not ,, could be a bad relay,, wiring ,
1.. to replace the axle parts+ labor should be no more than 150-200 dollars each side' you can pick up an axle yourself and take it to the shop ,, they will charge you labor but you save money on the parts
2.... the seat belt itself is the only part that is life time warranty on the srs system, motors, control unit are not lifetime ,, you need to have a shop diagnose the issue ( honda dealer or a shop that specializes on hondas
3.......whoever told you that it would cost $180 to recharge the a/c system and $ 300 to retrofit it to r134a RUN AWAY FROM THAT SHOP,, it is absolutely a total RIP off,,,
i would convert it to r134a ,, all you need is to evacuate the system ( you need an a/c machine for that,, remove the valves in the a/c lines,install some r134a fitting, and charge it with r134a freon,,,,,,,trust me it works i have dona a **** load of them with no problems ,, doing so you have to put less r134a freon than the system requires i believe you car takes 30-32 oz of r12 i would put no more than 24 oz r134a,
the reason the compressor might not work is that system is out of freon,, it needs to be diagnosed ,,,
4....... the fan is inop.........the driver's side fan is the a/c fan,, the pass side is the main cooling fan
chk the fuses ,,if ok,, chk to see if you get power and ground at fan connector ,, if you do you got a bad motor ,, if you do not ,, could be a bad relay,, wiring ,
1) System likely has a leak that lost original charge. Leak needs to be found and repaired before retrofitting, otherwise all other work will be lost when refrignerant leaks away.
2) The receiver/drier is not likely to be compatible w/ R134a, since the car vintage precedes R134a availability. Use of wrong receiver/drier can sometimes result in rupture of the bag containing the dessicant inside the receiver/drier and contamination of the entire AC system. End result is need to replace most of system components. Replace receiver/drier w/ new unit. They are cheap.
3) System contains no lubricant compatible w/ R134a. R12 and R134a use incompatible lubricants; R12=mineral oil and R134= PAG or Polyester oil. Polyester oil is compatible w/ R12 and R134, but that is not likely what's in his system now. W/o correct lubricant, the compressor will sieze. Suggest flushing as much as possible w/ air before adding PAG or Polyester lubricant.
good luck
#13
06-18-2009, 12:11 PM
Been Around A Long Time Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: In The Desert ( Sahara ? )
Posts: 4,754
Tex old buddy
the way that you are going to find a leak is to install freon and dye in the system,,so retrofitting it first is the best idea.
would you rather lose r12 at 50 dollars per lb or r134a at 20 dollars per lb
I guess you did not read the part that i said i have done a **** load of them with no issues ,you do not need to replace the rec drier i have never done it and no problem ,,
if you could remove the compressor and drain all the oil from it , it would be great and than add pag oil,, but just by evac the system, i would not add oil cause if too much oil in the compressor ,it will come apart, fluid does not compress well .
the way that you are going to find a leak is to install freon and dye in the system,,so retrofitting it first is the best idea.
would you rather lose r12 at 50 dollars per lb or r134a at 20 dollars per lb
I guess you did not read the part that i said i have done a **** load of them with no issues ,you do not need to replace the rec drier i have never done it and no problem ,,
if you could remove the compressor and drain all the oil from it , it would be great and than add pag oil,, but just by evac the system, i would not add oil cause if too much oil in the compressor ,it will come apart, fluid does not compress well .
#14
06-19-2009, 09:00 PM
Ok so I am going to go to MY mechanic tomorow since I trust him with my car. Then Ill see what he says and compare that with what all of you have said and with what everybody else has said. Thanks 
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