I have a 1994 VTEC 2.2 L 4 Cylinder EX Wagon Automatic.

I don't know much about the car history but it could have been cared for better. The original tires were 7 years old. Also, the original battery was a marine battery with four connection posts. (two positive, and two negative) Because of those two shocking discoveries I assume it has not even been tuned for 7 years. I am about to do a tune up. But this means that the symptoms could be from many problems.

When I take my foot off accelerator, or turn off the cruise control, the car quickly slows to a stop by itself without even needing to apply the brake pedal. Out of curiosity, shift into neutral (instead of reverse) on a steep hill or slope does not make it go backwards. I have researched and this seems to be called Anchoring, usually because of sticky brakes. I don't think it is sticky brakes because this issue only occurs sometimes.

Later, car engine is being sluggish occasionally. Sometimes, when accelerating, the engine sounds like it has a sore throat. It just does not want to accelerate properly. Cruise control works, temperature is below half, no D4 light, no Check Engine light.

Is my car going to explode? Why does to the symptoms only occur sometimes? Are the two symptoms connected to each other? Do Honda Accords have an Anchoring behaviour whenever there is engine trouble?

 

Reworking brakes, looking for dragging caliper bolts, should fix the dragging problem. Make sure e-brake is releasing. Brakes are only thing that will hold car in N on a hill. Temperature of brakes may play a role.

Many possibilities for lethargic acceleration. Starting w/ replacement or careful inspection of spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor is suggested. Make sure air filter is clean and no leaves blocking inlet.

Check for catalytic converter blockage w/ vacuum check, normal vac at idle but drops very low on accleration. You may also hear a hissing sound from engine. Disconnecting exhaust temporarily to relieve back pressure can confirm blockage.

good luck

 

Perhaps this new information is useful.

JUST DOWN THE STREET:

When driving it just down the street I will shift into reverse, or drive. (D4) I have not tried the lower gears. After shifting I hear the tiny click sound when the gears engage. Usually the car moves by itself, but when it acts up it will not move unless pressing on accelerator. If I wait before accelerating I hear the quiet sound of metal groaning. I have heard this sound before. It sounds similar to whenever I partially take my foot off the brake petal but then decide to put foot on brake again. (Example: when stopped at traffic light.)

This is even more confusing but the car is much more likely to move when shift into a gear (and it moves quickly also.) approximately 10 seconds after I start car. If I let it warm up, and it idles (the engine is quieter) The car is much more likely to act up. But if I just shift it about ten seconds after starting it, it does not seem to act up.

HIGHWAY:

I use the cruise control when driving on highway. I noticed that whenever it acts up while driving it on highway with the cruise control the RPM stays at "3" for several minutes before shifting again. If I turn off cruise control car will slow itself rapidly. (feet are not on brake) These behaviors seems to only happens once while driving it someplace. Otherwise it is fine. But when it acts up there is no blinking D4 light and there is no Check Engine Light. (the light does not come on and the light does not blink.)

AFTER TURNING IT OFF:

during the "down the street" test, whenever it acted up, after turning off the car I noticed that metallic brake sound described in the "down the street" paragraphs. It is shifted into park. The emergency brake is not activated. My foot is not on the brake petal. And the car is not parked on a slope. I was outside listening for noises so the car is obviously not moving. So why the metallic brake sound?

Will it explode?

 

I'd do the brake service TexasHonda suggested. Here is a link to a good how to video.

 

Yes to the above posts about the brakes. Also check the transmission fluid level. It sounds like there might be two issues here. If the torque converter is low on fluid the transmission won't engage so in some ways it sounds like the fluid level might be at just the right level to allow it to engage somewhat. Of you do a drain and fill just add 3qrts Honda ATF and the fluid level should be fine, but recheck. A little too much won't hurt the automatic.