98 accord 5 speed. I replaced the clutch disk.pressure plate,flywheel and also throw out bearing.all new.stage 2.got off Ebay. Cleaned and greased the splins .fork.and greased what's needed .after everything was put back together. Car wouldn't start .like it had to much pressure on the motor .ended up smelling like burning clutch. Then ended up starting. Will shift while off.but wont start while in gear or shift .it side shift once .made a crazy noise and then the shifter sprung back into neutral hard af.so... who had answers. I have no bleed the system or adjusted the master rod .the pedal is very firm. The clutch for moves once the pedal is engaged

 

Unable to shift while the engine is running, and shifting OK when the engine is not running means the clutch is dragging. It doesn't disengage completely. (The clutch is supposed to disengage when you press the pedal.)

The clutch fork moves how far back & forth when using the clutch pedal? Do you have something like a borescope you can watch the throw-out lever pushing against the spring fingers of the pressure plate?

The hub of the clutch disk sticks out further on one side, & if that's backwards it will not disengage properly. The shop manual isn't much help for an aftermarket clutch because it just shows which way the angled grooves are pointing. It doesn't really show which side of the hub is sticking out further. Do you still have your old clutch disk?

 

I do not have a boroscope .and I threw away the old clutch disk like a fool .now I did out the new clutch disk in with the larger part facing the tranny.but I did notice that the springs in the disk faced opposite side (it seems ) that the disc I replaced .like they are facing the flywheel. I did not apply grease to the splines inside the clutch disc .and they didnt get to torque the pressure plate bolts due to the wrench I have is 50 foots torque at its lowest.

 

I also have not looked at how far the fork is moving while the clutch pedal is pressed. I asked my gf to watch and all she said was it was moving

 

Tightening torque for the pressure plate is important for the long-term, as far as those bolts becoming loose after a couple years. That won't be the problem this quickly. If you had overtightened them a lot, probably one or more would have broken.

I think the clutch throw-out fork should move back & forth about 10mm. Just verifying that motion doesn't prove it's all good inside the bellhousing, but it's about the only thing you can check without removing the transmission again.

What about the throw-out fork being properly engaged with the throw-out bearing? And being properly engaged on the pivot-ball with that spring?



No grease on the splines of the input shaft can cause this, but I don't think it would happen that quickly. The clutch disk has to slide a tiny bit when you disengage the clutch. Pressing the clutch pedal pulls the pressure-plate away from the clutch disk. But if the clutch disk cannot slide on the shaft then it still drags against the flywheel. The amount it has to slide is pretty small, and for it to bind right away you would have had to leave a lot of crud on the splines of the transmission input shaft.

I wish someone could confirm which way the larger part of the hub should face. So I'm going to move this to Gen.Tech where more people will probably see it.