Clutch feels totally different, what could be the problem?
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 701
From: Chicago, IL
RE: Clutch feels totally different, what could be the problem?
bleed it like this for your year - make sure the pedal is up. top off the clutch master cylinder. open the bleeder screw - push the slave cylinder piston in by pushing on the shift fork, close the bleeder screw - release the shift fork - repeat.
i do this by loosening the slave cylinder bleeder screw, push the shift fork, close the bleeder screw finger tight, release the shift fork, repeat - don't let the fluid level drop too low.
btw - who in their right mind would go back to the very original post after all the progress and pics you posted.....? [sm=chairshot.gif]
i do this by loosening the slave cylinder bleeder screw, push the shift fork, close the bleeder screw finger tight, release the shift fork, repeat - don't let the fluid level drop too low.
btw - who in their right mind would go back to the very original post after all the progress and pics you posted.....? [sm=chairshot.gif]
Super Moderator : And A Texan
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 9,652
From: Katy, TX
RE: Clutch feels totally different, what could be the problem?
As I understand you have a bad clutch MC, and cannot get the tubing nut to release from the MC. There are two options;
1) Cut the tubing line which may require removing the other tubing end from clutch damper unit to splice a new end, or you may be able to splice new tubing endin place, or you may be able to buy the entire tubing line at a salvage yard.Following link discusses splicing brake lines which are same as the steel clutch tubing lines. It just might be enough slack in the tubing line to allow cutting, adding a new nut and reflaring. You may want to consider shop help if this looks to daunting.
http://volksweb.relitech.com/brakeln.htm
2) If you're lucky you may be able to loosen the nut w/ vise grips (one to hold the MC and other to turn stubborn nut) and redress the nut w/ a file. I buggered some tubing nuts on a ABS modulator and was successful in dressing them adequately to use a flare tubing wrench to install the nut.
There's a lesson here. Buy a set of flare tubing wrenches to work on brake or clutch tubing lines. An open-end wrench just won't do the job. However, the location of the clutch MC makes access to w/ a flare tubing wrench nearly impossible. I used an open-end wrench on my daughter's Acura CL, and was lucky the nut was loose.
I hope this helps.
good luck
1) Cut the tubing line which may require removing the other tubing end from clutch damper unit to splice a new end, or you may be able to splice new tubing endin place, or you may be able to buy the entire tubing line at a salvage yard.Following link discusses splicing brake lines which are same as the steel clutch tubing lines. It just might be enough slack in the tubing line to allow cutting, adding a new nut and reflaring. You may want to consider shop help if this looks to daunting.
http://volksweb.relitech.com/brakeln.htm
2) If you're lucky you may be able to loosen the nut w/ vise grips (one to hold the MC and other to turn stubborn nut) and redress the nut w/ a file. I buggered some tubing nuts on a ABS modulator and was successful in dressing them adequately to use a flare tubing wrench to install the nut.
There's a lesson here. Buy a set of flare tubing wrenches to work on brake or clutch tubing lines. An open-end wrench just won't do the job. However, the location of the clutch MC makes access to w/ a flare tubing wrench nearly impossible. I used an open-end wrench on my daughter's Acura CL, and was lucky the nut was loose.
I hope this helps.
good luck
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