Computer Controlled Motor Mounts? 2001 V6 AT
#1
01-21-2010, 11:01 AM
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Litchfield Pk, Arizona
Posts: 17
Computer Controlled Motor Mounts? 2001 V6 AT
Couldn't find anything from the "Search" function, so here goes.
Took my just purchased 2001 EX V6 w/AT to a Honda dealer for a general checkout. They said the front and pass. side motor mounts are "cracked"--wanted ~$500 to change.
OK, easy enough for me to change 'em. Don't have a Honda Service manual yet, so I bought a semi-useless Haynes with the poor quality photos. Haynes says the front and rear mounts are "computer controlled".
Does the "computer" simply monitor them for cracks/lots of movement, or does it actually control something? I read on this forum something about a vacuum line/fluid line between the front and rear mounts that's supposed to cut the vibes down--can anyone elaborate?
Took my just purchased 2001 EX V6 w/AT to a Honda dealer for a general checkout. They said the front and pass. side motor mounts are "cracked"--wanted ~$500 to change.
OK, easy enough for me to change 'em. Don't have a Honda Service manual yet, so I bought a semi-useless Haynes with the poor quality photos. Haynes says the front and rear mounts are "computer controlled".
Does the "computer" simply monitor them for cracks/lots of movement, or does it actually control something? I read on this forum something about a vacuum line/fluid line between the front and rear mounts that's supposed to cut the vibes down--can anyone elaborate?
#2
01-21-2010, 01:09 PM
Yeah, the front & rear mounts are controlled (not just monitored) by the computer. Still, you can change them yourself.
There's a solenoid valve (#12) so you can check whether it's wiring harness is loose/dirty/corroded. Check the vacuum tubing from the intake manifold (#28) to verify it's hooked up & getting vacuum. Then check the tubing from the solenoid valve to the tee & to both of the vacuum-operated engine mounts (#5,6). Check the integrity of the mount itself with something like a MityVac to verify they hold vacuum (don't leak).
If you're lucky, it's something silly like a disconnected hose.
There's a solenoid valve (#12) so you can check whether it's wiring harness is loose/dirty/corroded. Check the vacuum tubing from the intake manifold (#28) to verify it's hooked up & getting vacuum. Then check the tubing from the solenoid valve to the tee & to both of the vacuum-operated engine mounts (#5,6). Check the integrity of the mount itself with something like a MityVac to verify they hold vacuum (don't leak).
If you're lucky, it's something silly like a disconnected hose.
#3
01-21-2010, 01:25 PM
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Litchfield Pk, Arizona
Posts: 17
Thanks, Jim
I took a good look at the front and pass. side mounts and I can't find any cracks in either rubber or metal. Are there any polyurethane replacement mounts, or do most guys just stay with rubber? When my wife gets home I'm going to give the engine a little load test while I watch it, to see how much travel the mounts have.
Looks like the line between the F&R mounts is just vacuum, no oil, etc. Out of curiosity I've gotta find out how changing the internal pressure/vacuum affects the vibes.
I know V6 engines have inherently poor balance, so Honda must have burned the midnight oil figuring out how to smooth it out. I am much more experienced with smooth-as-butter Toyota Supra inline 6's with their perfect primary balance, but long engines don't work in FWD cars.
I took a good look at the front and pass. side mounts and I can't find any cracks in either rubber or metal. Are there any polyurethane replacement mounts, or do most guys just stay with rubber? When my wife gets home I'm going to give the engine a little load test while I watch it, to see how much travel the mounts have.
Looks like the line between the F&R mounts is just vacuum, no oil, etc. Out of curiosity I've gotta find out how changing the internal pressure/vacuum affects the vibes.
I know V6 engines have inherently poor balance, so Honda must have burned the midnight oil figuring out how to smooth it out. I am much more experienced with smooth-as-butter Toyota Supra inline 6's with their perfect primary balance, but long engines don't work in FWD cars.
#5
01-21-2010, 03:55 PM
Applying & releasing the vacuum makes the mount softer & harder. I'm not sure which way...
I had thought the vacuum mounts were only in 4-cyl auto-trans cars, and were in the "stiff" state nearly all the time. The only time they go "soft" is idling in D or R. I imagine that's the same idea for the V-6 cars.
The way to check the mounts, is to unplug the wire from the solenoid valve while idling in D or R. (gotta trust that someone is standing on the brake pedal) It should make the engine vibrate noticably more. What I don't know is whether that solenoid valve is normally open or normally closed.
I had thought the vacuum mounts were only in 4-cyl auto-trans cars, and were in the "stiff" state nearly all the time. The only time they go "soft" is idling in D or R. I imagine that's the same idea for the V-6 cars.
The way to check the mounts, is to unplug the wire from the solenoid valve while idling in D or R. (gotta trust that someone is standing on the brake pedal) It should make the engine vibrate noticably more. What I don't know is whether that solenoid valve is normally open or normally closed.
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