Try applying 12 volt direct power to the actuator. See if the actuator moves the latch. Positive (+) to terminal 1 and ground (-) to terminal 2 should lock, reverse the polarity on the terminals to unlock. Only do this briefly, to avoid burning out the motor.

It could also possibly be the actuator was not installed correctly on the latch. I haven't replaced an actuator on a 7th gen Accord; however, on some earlier Accords, the actuator may have a part that has to hook onto a tab on the latch for it to work properly.

 

Ok, I'm back to square one again.
redbull-1 applied 12v to the actuator and got nothing, saved my old actuator that was working, tested it again and now it wont work as well. At this point I think I'm going to order another actuator and door latch assembly. what is your thoughts on this plan of action.

 

1. First, what are you using as the source for 12 volt power and ground? Is it actually putting out 12 volt (e.g., battery); you can check with a voltmeter/multimeter.

Touch one terminal of the actuator with positive (+) and the other with negative (-).

2. If the door can open and close with no problems using the inner door handle or the outer door handle, and the lock ****/tab pulls up and pushes down with no problems, the latch may not require replacement.

An actuator is actually very simple, it is just a motor with gears. Check your power source you're using and then test both the old and newer actuators you already have to make sure they really are bad. If they work, then I would recommend checking the installation of the actuator onto the latch (you might even want to remove and re-install). If the actuators don't work, then try a new actuator.

 

I disassembled the door latch and actuator, hooked it up with jumper wires directly to a battery and both actuators are not working.I also hooked both of them up to door wire harness which I know has 12v and the actuators would not work either. I feel a small vibration when I hook it up to 12v but it does not move the arm on both actuators.

 

Was this done with the actuator in the car?

I ask because as my mentor stated, if the lock will move manually without binding or much effort....then I would assume the actuator is bad. If the cable/rod to the lock is not seated or not properly installed then this could cause the issue.

 

Yes, the door actuators were tested with 12v. Hooked both actuators straight to the battery and also hooked to the wiring harness in the door. I took one of the actuators apart and pulled the motor out and the motor works fine hooked up to 12v, but when I put it back together it will not actuate. I got a new actuator in the mail today. Will post redusts when I hook up the new one.

 

I got great news, it was the actuator. Guess the shop I took it to got a bad part.
Well I know how to replace it now. Thanks for all the help.
Have a new problem, will post new thread for it, thanks again.

 

Good! and thanks for posting the end results..