I have a camshaft position sensor code. I did all the Pin tests ( Alldata Troubleshooter ) and the distributor checks out-Alldata says replace ECM with a known Good one...I bought a remaned distributor and replaced it anyway..Nothing changed, same code,so i need a ECM..The local bone yard has plenty of them..This should be a plug and play or not ? I believe the key has a chip in it,will this matter..Thanks for all replies..

 

What year/model/transmission, etc do you have. Put this info in your signature, so you don't have to remember to enter it every time you start a new thread.

 

Oh sorry..1998 Accord EX 2.3l Manual Tranny--Federal Emissions

 

What actual code did you get (Pxxxx)? The car doesn't have a camshaft sensor.

Couple sensors down at the front crank pulley, along with the ones inside the distributor.

 

The code i got was p1382..Which indicates a Camshaft sensor,built into the distributor..I checked the resistence and it is within specs at 985 ohms..It measures the same at the ECM..There is no short to ground on either wire..All the tests indicate a ECM..I tried a rebuilt Distributor but it didnt fix it..After i changed the distributor and reset the Ecm the code returned as soon as i crunk it up..I can get a ECM from a local Bone Yard.. My question is..Is it plug and play for a 1998 or will there be flashing involved,anybody ever just swapped one out on a 1998 2.3l Manual Tranny..Thanks

 

CYP cylinder-position sensor.

Seems to me the resistance test is only part of the story. You'd want to watch the signal with an oscilloscope to really prove it's good or bad. But swapping the distributor really suggests that you're right about the sensor being OK.

The bone-yard ECM would be plug-n-play except for the immobilizer. Gotta have a dealer (or a locksmith?) get in there & "authorize" your keys to work with the new ECM. Otherwise they'll crank the starter but won't run the fuel injectors & spark.

Here's a temporary work-around IF you can get a key from the donor car.
Take the key from the donor car & tape it right onto YOUR key so the plastic body of both keys are against each other. The key part can face anywhere as long as you can put your key in.

I've also heard that if you can only find an auto-trans ECM, there's a jumper you can remove to tell it not to look for any auto-trans signals. But I don't know the details about that.

 

Well , i think i can put a used ECM in and Disable the Immobilizer..From the diagram it looks like i can cut the Geen/Yellow wire and run it from relay to ground..As for the light, just kill the power to it by cuting the pink wire..I wonder if this will throw a DTC..Any thoughts? I dont know if the diagram i included is big enough to read..

 

Not sure but I don't think that'll work. (but doesn't cost anything to try.) The only green/yellow wire I see is the fuelpump signal which is not related to the immobilizer. (The picture is kinda fuzzy.)

The immobilizer "receiver unit" is kinda like an antenna. It just gets a signal from the RFID chip (in the key). The ECM has to decode that signal & then it has to decide whether the serial# of the key is on it's list of "authorized" keys.

 

Everything in that diagram is related to the Immobilizer.Thats the tilte of the diagram ( Immobilizer Circuit)..The Green/Yellow is the Ground ECM Output from the Immobilizer Circuit to the Fuel Pump..