Hi im new here so im not sure if I posted this in the right place but here is my problem


I have a 1994 Honda accord LX manual. When it first starts up it runs fine till it warms up then it keeps stalling out. Now im getting check engine lights 9, 4, 15, and 8. My question is all of this seperate from the distributor or is it all part of the distributor and if it is all part of the distributor would it be easier to replace it or repair it. Also my car doesnt rev past 5k rpms not sure if that has anything to do with it. if you need any other information let me know. im just trying to figure out how i need to go about fixing this thanks.

 

You posted in the right place. Welcome to HAF.

Codes 9, 4, and 8 are for sensors in the distributor. Code 15 is for the ignitor in the distributor.

I find it strange that all four components in the distributor are having a problem at the same time. I would first reset the ECU by pulling the 7.5 amp backup/radio fuse in the engine bay fuse box for a minute. Put the fuse back in, then start the car and wait until the check engine light turns on. I would then recheck the codes to make sure that all four return.

Go to the common diy thread on top of the gen tech forum. There is a link to online shop manuals where you can download a 94 accord shop manual as a pdf. In the fuel and emissions section, you can find the tests for the sensors on page 11-42. Page 11-50 has the ignitor tests. You will need to use a volt meter to do these tests.

I would also remove the distributor cap and inspect the wiring inside. Also inspect the wiring near the electrical connector of the distributor.

 

Thanks
So i did as you said i took the distributor cap off checked the wires then reinstalled. I pulled the fuse and drove it home. The engine codes it was throwing now is code 4 which is the crankshaft sensor if im right. still a little confused on whether it be safer to replace the whole distributor or fix this one. Anyhelp would be appreciated/

 

Honda's official story is those sensors are not replaceable. You replace the whole distributor. But you might find a bare distributor without coil or ignitor.

People have replaced those sensors but it's not certain where you get the sensor. If you buy a junkyard distributor you might as well swap the whole distributor in. Otherwise you'd have to be lucky enough to find a distributor with one of the other sensors bad while the one you want is good.

 

Yea i figured as mch so i went to the junkyard and got a distributor it looked almost new except one bolt was broken for the distributor cap it was seized init and snapped apparently.i didnt notice it till i got home and had finish putting it on LOL so i just put the cap on with only the two bolts. It runs very well now and it wasnt hard matching the timing but i will still have it checked. The car tho now wont redline it wont let me go past 5k rpm and it still feels kinda sluggish anything else i should check or do?

 

Setting the spark timing properly might resolve that anyway.

Rotor, coil or ignitor from your original distributor might be better than those parts from the JY unit.

Check for arcing across the cap. Cold engine, complete darkness (like 4:am). Open the hood, turn off all the lights, start the engine. Look for anything, like a dull blue glow. Replace parts that have arcing, like maybe the cap.

 

Here is a stalling variation on a '91 LX, 160k miles, manual trans for which I could use some help.

On cold starts on cold days (never in the summer or a warm day) engine stalls (no spark) after about 8 minutes just as the engine is reaching operating temp; and often on the freeway which is scary! After 3-4 minutes sitting it restarts and runs fine. Only code is 15 which I can reset and it stays clear until the next cold morning. No CEL and no tach flutter I can detect. Based on the various stalling threads read, I have:
Replaced-
Main Relay (2)
Ignition SW
Cap, rotor and wires
PCV

Serviced-
IACV
Checked and waterproofed dist wires with silicone

My thinking is to test (pointers needed) or replace the ECM temp sensor or maybe the thermostat on the theory that a rush of hot coolant is causing the ECM to trigger a shutdown and after the coolant temp moderates, the engine then starts. Other ideas much appreciated.

 

I'd suspect the ignitor (ICM inside the distributor).

Code 15 is "ignition output signal" which is not related to the ignition switch. It's the signal from the ECM to the ignitor, telling it to fire the coil.

Look also at the wiring harness at the distributor. Loose, dirty, corroded pins? Loose/dirty/corroded terminal connections to the ignitor (screw terminals inside the distributor)?

 

Thx, Jim. I decided to order a dist and will update the thread update when it is installed and tested. $90 on eBay. There was a semi behind me the last time the engine quit. This has got to get fixed. Thx again.

 

Three crisp mornings and no stalling. I think the new dist fixed the problem. thx.