So the 02 Accord 4 cylinder was running Ok/ drivable but check engine light always on showing cylinder misfires and egr codes and I cant get a license without emissions---its been sitting up a year. I ran a tank on injector cleaner thru and didn't clear up the misfire codes, I visually looked at plugs and they looked good. My next thought without diagnostic equipment was maybe bad injectors so I ordered some and with the guidance on Youtube replaced them even though the ones in there visually looked ok. I really think I did that right, the only uncertainty I have is possibly a vacuum hose I wasn't 100% where it went but prob right. So I was happy when it started right up after that job with no gas leakage and now I have badddddddddddddddddd misfire /undriveable and surging/ up and down in rpm continually /every 3 or 4 seconds. So Im worse off now than when I began---its undrivable though running----------------if im forced to take it to a shop it will have to be towed. NOW THAT IVE BEEN IN IT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS FLASHING FAST which it wasn't before I began to suggest its something I did . I didn't mark the wires to the injectors when I removed the fuel rail, but visually Im pretty sure I hooked them back up correctly

Any ideas what I could have done to make it worse???????????, no leaking of gas anywhere and yes I did have the seals into the cylinder that the injectors went thru, I could not change the EGR since the nuts/bolts were so rounded off from previous attempts/ it hard to get to. Any suggestions on what further I should check. Now I did get the injectors on-line designated for this car and they looked a little bit different but that alone doesn't make me conclude the wrong ones??????. If they were incorrect logically I wouldn't think that would cause a bad misfire if they were spraying

Appreciate any guidance and thoughts-------------really hate to pay the price at a shop for an 02/second car if its something I can do with direction. Thanks, gentlemen!!!!!

 

Do you know what codes are being thrown. It should tel you what cylinder is misfiring. Change the injectors back. You probably have the wrong ones in it. You have to go through the proper troubleshooting steps before changing out parts that's not needed. You can do a check on the injectors by holding a flat head on it and listen for a constant click.

 

thanks for the feedback---------I was thinking the same thing since its worse than when I began. Due to different manufacturers cant an injector look a bit different but still be the right spec. Again I had 2 cylinders with misses before I swapped injectors / its just worse/ not drivable with flashing CEL now. Cant an injectors click but still not be spraying out good stream?????? ( again they looked OK physically). No doubt the replacement injectors are clicking and spraying since its running ( badly) but you suggesting they still can be the problem/ ie incorrect ones.. Logically if the wrong injector that might explain the surging. . Its been a year. cant find the diagnostic on which 2 cylinders the issue. Can it only be plugs, injectors, plug wires, electronic ignition on a misfire. Thanks for the input

 

I would install the original injectors.

Based on your description of the problem, I'm not sure of the root cause and think you have some more work to do before replacing any more parts.

Are you able to scan your car for codes?

 

no scanner and not drivable now but was working off of a autozone code scan from year ago----------have long since lost track of the codes but it was misfires in a couple cylinders and an EGR code----------I can only hope maybe fixing the misfire makes the egr code go away cause cant get it off-----------the nuts are hard to get too cleanly and are all rounded off now and even grip-tites wont remove them. EGR would not be associated with the misfire issues would it.

 

A very inexpensive code reader will probably help you with the diagnosis vs paying a shop for the work. I bought a bluetooth code reader online years ago for about $20 and bought torque pro for~$8.

I can't remember when Honda went to an all electronic EGR valve. Look at the EGR valve and see if it has a rubber vacuum hose connected to it. If it has a vacuum hose connected, remove the vacuum hose and plug the vacuum hose with something like an old spark plug. Try to start the car with EGR valve disabled and see what happens.

 

thanks for the response. I call myself checking the plugs, wires and electronic ignition ( is that what it is. cover like the old days distributor with wires going to it) and finding no issues before I suspected by elimination maybe the injectors. I'm so sure I did this replacement right but going to put the original injectors back in tomorrow and see if I can get back to where I was when I began / CEL on but not flashing and drivable at least which isn't now. I could buy a tester but I tried to check out the cylinders the codes indicated then. I'll look at the EGR tomorrow and do what you suggest, cant remember from memory which kind------------EGR would have been the last thing I would have suspected for an engine miss and hoped that code just triggered because of the cylinder misses and might go away with the misses

 

The EGR can cause the engine to stall out if the EGR valve is open and the engine is at idle. That is one of the tests for verifying the EGR passages in the intake are not clogged.

Pulling the vacuum hose to the EGR valve is a very quick test to see if vacuum is being supplied to the EGR valve to open it and cause your engine to stall.

I remember I rounded a nut on my 95 accord EGR valve. I think I removed the intake manifold to get a dremel tool to cut the nut/stud. I replaced the studs on my 95 accord.

Removing the intake was time consuming, so I would hold off going after replacing the EGR valve until you at lest read some codes, then do some diagnostics.