I have a '97 Accord with the 2.2 VTEC engine. I'm replacing the engine with a JDM and I have two choices: the 2.2 which was used up to '97 and the other choice is the 2.3 used from '98 to about '02 from what I was told. The place that sells the engines tells me that the 2.3 will bolt right up. I just have to swap external stuff like intake and exhaust manifold, brackets, wire harness, etc. They tell me I have to do that with the 2.2 as well, so no difference in labor in that aspect.

On the 2.2, I have to change to a different oil pump that can interface with the crank position sensor. I'm wondering if I have to change the pulley, too? I'd like to stay with the 2.2 but I'm afraid that removing the pulley might be a challenge.

The 2.3 is newer, cheaper (by about $150) and doesn't require that I change the oil pump. Is the 2.3 really a straight swap? It almost sounds too good to be true - newer, cheaper, less labor. What's the catch?

What have you all done? Any input on the 2.2 vs. 2.3 swap would be appreciated.

 

Look for a post from "Roader", he recently did this.

 

Here, read this: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...gen-5-a-47757/

 

The F23 has been running great since I put it in, more power, torque, and a bit better gas mileage. I'd do it again but would use a cheap ($50) throttle body spacer instead of the convoluted IACV plumbing modification.

An alternative to the adapting the '97 2-wire IACV to the F23 manifold would be to use the F22 intake manifold, losing five or so horsepower I've read.

 

Thanks, Roader. The place that sells the engine says to swap all external hardware, which I would have done if/when I got the 2.3. I just want to make sure the other interfaces are the same - radiator and heater hoses, engine mounts, brackets for accessories, belts, transmission, etc. - so I can use what I have already from the engine and what I have already ordered.

I read your writeup and I'm impressed that you got away for so cheap. I'm looking at spending what you did just on motor mounts alone - 3 out of 4 were broken - and then all the miscellaneous seals, timing belt, water pump, thermostat and other things I plan to replace while the engine is out and it's easy to do. I'm leaning towards the 2.3 now, but I hope not to have to spend a ton more to make it work. Plus, I hate to get in that situation where you need "just one more thing to make it work" because I don't want end up in this cycle where you find you need another part, order, wait for it to come, install, need another part, order, wait, install and keep repeating until you go insane.

 

Wait a sec...the cost I listed did not include maintenance items I replaced: "water pump, timing & balance belts, all front seals, rear main seal, axle seals, input shaft seal, torque converter O-ring, fuel filter" ran another $200 or so, ordering online. Also note that I was able to recoup a lot of the cost by selling my old engine (and trans) since both worked fine. IDK if that's the case for you.

As I remember you're starting with a VTEC car so your swap will be a bit easier than mine since I had to swap computers, wire the solenoid, and rig up a coil mount. You don't have to since you're starting with a VTEC car (I think. You may want to put your car in your signature line.)

I had to replace the front and rear mounts. The front I got online cheap, around $10. The rear - vacuum operated - I got at a junkyard for $20.