f23a1 compression readings
#4
compression results
I appreciate the reply . I tested because I am getting crazy oil consumption from a car that is running fine. and does not seem to be smoking enough to be burning what seems to be about 2-3 qts of oil per tank of gas. I replaced the pcv valve and cleaned the egr, but still getting insufficient flow error, (I know I need to take off the intake and clean it better and probably replace the egr at this point . my static compression readings with engine at N.O.T. throttle open full 8 second crank and waiting for 60 seconds to see if any pressure was lost are as follows:
cyl 1 @ 190psi no loss
cyl 2 @ 190 psi no loss
cyl 3 @ 185 psi no loss
cyl 4 @ 185 psi no loss.
but when I added 6ml oil for the wet test , it jumped to 235,235,235,225 respectively with no loss at 60secs. the thing that baffles me is the compression from what I can find is what it should be. the car runs great and smooth with the exception of carbon building on cyl 1 spark plug ( new plugs and checked 3 days later.)
cyl 1 @ 190psi no loss
cyl 2 @ 190 psi no loss
cyl 3 @ 185 psi no loss
cyl 4 @ 185 psi no loss.
but when I added 6ml oil for the wet test , it jumped to 235,235,235,225 respectively with no loss at 60secs. the thing that baffles me is the compression from what I can find is what it should be. the car runs great and smooth with the exception of carbon building on cyl 1 spark plug ( new plugs and checked 3 days later.)
#5
Compression rings and oil control rings can wear differently. I have a similar problem with my F22B2. Great compression, no visible smoking when driving the car, but lots of oil consumed; originally 400 miles/qt. but got that down to 800 miles/qt. after two Marvel Mystery Oil soaks. Obviously, still gulping oil, but respectable results for a snake oil treatment.
My (very limited) experience tells me that infrequent oil changes and/or overheating cokes the oil rings and the MMO gets rid of some of that coking; but there's no magic cure. In my case the oil turned dark very quickly after an oil/filter change, which to me indicates a ring problem, vs. losing oil through valves seals which wouldn't darken the oil. The oil stays much cleaner now after the MMO soak.
My (very limited) experience tells me that infrequent oil changes and/or overheating cokes the oil rings and the MMO gets rid of some of that coking; but there's no magic cure. In my case the oil turned dark very quickly after an oil/filter change, which to me indicates a ring problem, vs. losing oil through valves seals which wouldn't darken the oil. The oil stays much cleaner now after the MMO soak.
Last edited by Roader; 04-01-2012 at 11:39 AM. Reason: Typo
#7
after finding a couple of different threads wherein the use of marvel mystery oil was discussed for the use of freeing sticky oil control rings I have decided to try it this weekend. I am going to add seafoam to the oil on friday evening , drive about 35-40 miles , let the engine cool. add the mmo and let it sit overnight. then the next morning I will clear the cylinders and install the plugs and run it for awhile then change the oil and filter. I am going to do another mmo soak later that evening and the next morning after clearing the cylinders and running it until it stops fogging the neighborhood (let the kids hunt easter eggs in the fog) I will change the oil and fiter again, and see what if any result has been acheived . at the very worst I blow this engine and replace it, though I am hoping to revive it enough to get some mileage out of it. if I can get to where I only have to add one quart for every 400-800 miles that sure beats 2-4 qts I am doing now. If this does not work, has anyone had luck buying a jdm f23a1 on the internet.
#8
A few tips:
- The longer it soaks the better, 24 hours or even 48 if you can; a few posters over at Bob is the Oil Guy leave it in for a week
- No need to change the oil/filter between soaks; the few ounces of MMO that make its way into the crankcase won't hurt anything
- Position the pistons so they're all about even i.e., none at TDC or BDC
- Fill each cylinder with MMO until it laps at the spark plug hole
- Crank the engine by hand a few revolutions halfway through the soak & refill with MMO
- Suck as much MMO out after the soak; a turkey baster with a piece of fuel line attached to it worked for me
- Put a rag over the plug holes and crank for 10 seconds or so to make sure any remaining MMO is gone and the cylinder(s) won't hydrolock
- Be prepared for 30 - 60 seconds of cranking to get it started
#9
so I bought my marvel mystery oil (gallon size) , some lucas fuel treatment, seafoam and some fresh oil. I added some seafoam to the crankcase before going to go get the stuff this evening and then drove 40 miles round trip to a walmart two towns over to make sure I ran it through a bit. I am really hoping this is just seized oil control rings and that this does some good . Perhaps overtime I can bring this back to life enough to not have to replace the engine. the car runs great but I cant spend more on oil than gas , that is just not practical .
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