I know that a lot of others have been down this road, and I've read a lot of the posts concerning this issue. But, I'm still having trouble...

About 6 weeks ago, I did the t-belt replacement along with water pump, seals, idler and tensioner pulleys on my 01 Accord (2.3L, Auto, 99K miles). I researched several sources for the job and really took my time doing it; at completion, the car started right up and ran like a dream—like it always has.

Recently, I did a routine oil check and was alarmed to see the level barely showing on the dipstick. I put it up on ramps immediately and saw a severe leak right beneath the crank pulley. I decided that the front crank seal had gone bad or blown out or something, which is frustrating 'cause I was very careful to tap that seal squarely into place when I replaced it.

So, I'm in the process of doing the whole job over again in my miserably hot garage, and I cannot remove the dang crank bolt this time! Here's the most popular method that uses the special pulley-holding tool, and it worked well for me the first-time around.

Well, I attempted this tried-and-true method yesterday morning, only to have a brand new, 20" extension bar (Kobalt, thank you, Lowe's) shatter and ricochet into my face. Lot of blood, but the flying metal didn't get near my eyes, thank God.

Today, I'm attempting the same thing with a 3/4" breaker bar, 20" impact-tool extension bar (for strength), and a 64" rigid steel pipe as a cheater bar. Still won't budge.

I'm not 19 years-old anymore, but I'm 220lbs and still do chin-ups regularly. I feel like I ought to be able to break this bolt loose with my current setup!

OK. I'm done...any ideas out there?

 

if you have access to an impact gun try that. what did you torque to when you reinstalled it? and when you get it out, don't reuse it, get a new one from the dealer.

 

Thanks, Jeff. Wish I did...have a good one, that is. I don't have a compressor that would drive a big air wrench. What I have is this electric Milwaukee, which is fine for lug nuts and such, but it won't do a thing for crank bolts.

I did reuse the original bolt and torqued it (I think) to around 180ft/lbs.

 

My last timing belt job a few months ago I broke down and bought an air compressor and 1/2" air impact wrench from Harbor Freight. I bought the extended warranty on the air compressor also.

Electric Air Compressor - 2-1/2 HP, 10 Gallon, 125 PSI



It made removing and installing the crankshaft bolt a breeze.

I also use the air compressor frequently to air up tires on my car.

If you can swing the $$ I would buy it.

 

Heat. An oxy-acetylene torch worked great for me, but others have posted that a propane torch will do the job too.Check the balance shaft seal too as when it leaks the oil winds its way around and drips right below the crankshaft.

 

Very true on checking and replacing the balance shaft seal, then install the oil seal retainer.

This balancer shaft seal was a problem on 6th generation Accord 4 cylinders, not just earlier generation Accords.

See this links:
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/x00-073e.pdf

Bernard's Blog: Honda Balance Shaft Seal Pop Out

 

I actually almost did this yesterday, Tradosaurus—instead I decided to try breaking the bolt loose with bigger/stronger bars. Still haven't gotten it free, though, and I'm getting sick/tired of it. Part of the problem is I'm a little gun-shy; my face is still bruised and cut from the last episode, so I'm uncomfortable with putting all my weight on this big cheater bar.

 

GOT IT!!! Just gave it another go and bent that huge cheater bar way down 'til the bolt broke free with a loud crack!

Now the real work begins—finding/fixing the problem. I'll take a look at that balance shaft seal for sure. Don't be surprised if I'm back on here again soon... but for now, Happy Fourth of July!

 

Okay, now I need some good advice, guys. I didn't find a huge mess in there (seems like most of the oil leaked onto my garage floor), but it definitely looks to me like that brand new crank seal is leaking at the bottom. It's in there nice and square, but it's "inset" just a hair past flush with the surrounding metal. Is that a problem? I will say that I remember thinking the original, oem seal felt heavier and more solid than the new part.

Take a look and many thanks for the help!

 

This may be a side-note, but did you replace the large o-ring behind the rear sprocket housing for the balance shaft? That sprocket is in the upper right side of the 1st picture. The reason I ask is that there appears to be some stain or oil under the bolt at 1 o'clock from the crankshaft. I just can't tell from the pic.

It looks like the crank seal is leaking. Did you check that you didn't scrape the metal seal housing when you removed the old seal? How did you install the new seal?