No, I haven't touched that balance shaft sprocket. I don't think it's leaking—that stain you mentioned doesn't continue all the way over to the balance shaft, but I'll take another look to be sure...

I was trying to not scrape any metal when I removed the old crankshaft seal, but it was tough; that thing did not want to come out of there. I used this Lisle seal puller, which normally works great, but it still took forever.

I used one of my big sockets and a rubber hammer to tap the new seal into place.

 

Bad luck on that seal leaking. I won't hurt one if its pushed in a bit further, in fact it may seal better because the sealing lip will be back on fresh metal not worn mirror smooth by the old seal's lip. At any rate when you put the new one in make sure you lubricate the crank's snout and the seal first and then do all you can to keep it square as you drive it home. I have always just put in seals with a brass drift but if you've got access to a set of those installers and can find one of the correct size that will fit over the crank then that is what you should use.

On that photo of the wrench on the crank bolt I would have felt a lot better if the wrench end of that extension had been supported by a jack or a jack-stand set at the appropriate height. Do that and put a 6- or so section of pipe over that breaker bar and hang your 200+ pounds out on the end of the pipe. The bolt will break loose. Here's why you need to buy good wrenches with lifetime warranties, if the wrench breaks take it back and get another one. If the bolt won't break loose get a longer pipe.

 

If you put the t-belt/balance and that back on, you can run the car with the covers off - of course you are running on the battery only - to see if you can narrow down the source of the leak.

Just an idea

 

A good idea. Chasing a front oil leak with the plastic covers on is frustrating.

Make sure the crankshaft is in nice and smooth. Polish the crank sealing surface with 1000 grit emery paper. I have a prejudice for OEM seals. They seem to be designed a bit better than aftermarket seals and the cost differential isn't that great. The crank seal list price is less than $10.

 

Agreed, and I actually did use a jack-stand for that purpose. That particular photo wasn't taken from my actual setup—it's just one out there on that Internet that captures the general idea. When I actually did get the bolt out yesterday, I was using an impact socket, impact extension, 3/4" breaker bar, and a 64" long rigid pipe (in combination with a jack stand and the special pulley holder too, of course). Sorry for not being a little clearer earlier...

I think the crank seal is definitely the source of the major oil leak, although it's hard to see anything wrong with the new seal (or the installation) in that photo. I'm going to try and grab an OEM seal from the dealer tonight and swap it in. I do have some 1000-grit paper around, so I'll definitely polish up those crank sealing surfaces and oil everything real well, before installation.

I love the idea of cranking it with the timing covers off—makes me sick to think about pulling everything off again anytime in the future, should the leak continue. So, if I reinstall the belts and crank the motor using the battery only, should I put the valve cover back on first and also disconnect the distributor? Anything else I'm missing?

 

Yea, set the valve cover on - forgot about that, a mess of oil flying around .

I'm talking about starting the engine up and letting it run. The major items (water pump, oil pump) are driven by the t-belts so no harm to the engine running. Just saying the alt is not hooked up so hpe your battery is in pretty good shape. Make sure all wires and that are out of the way. Crank it up and let it run for two-three-five minutes while you look at everything.

 

Gotcha. My battery's in great shape, so shouldn't be a problem running off it for a few minutes. I can always hook up my trickle charger later, if need be. Thanks for the great idea.

 

When you go pick up the crankshaft seal from the dealer, I also recommend getting the balancer shaft seal retainer. The list price on the retainer is around $3; however, some local dealers mark-up over list. That way you won't have to open it up again due to a different leak at the balancer shaft seal later on.

 

Don't forget to install the timing and balance shaft belt.

You should install the crank pulley, because you must have the key installed and remain in place. If not, the crank sprocket would not spin with the crank and you would get valve damage. Plus, that key could fall out.

I don't know if you can just install the crank bolt, but I doubt it.

 

So, that seal retainer is a must for '01 Accords too, huh? How difficult is it install the retainer? Do you have to pull the balance shaft sprocket to get to it?

Appreciate it!