I have a 'new' 97 accord LX, auto, with 155k miles on it that I am trying to do all the basics to ensure maximum fuel economy.
So far
- i've checked the plugs and tranny fluid (both in great shape)
- Seafoam'ed the intake and crank case as well as a bottle of lucas in the gas tank.
-new air filter

The only 'standard' thing left I can think of is Fuel Filter, but in my research I've found it's a 'lifetime filter'. Is this true? Is there any benefit in changing the filter? I've searched this site and haven't found anything with regard to changing it as well.

Thanks for any insight.

btw - great forum!

 

honda fuel filters i don't think are known to fail very often. hardly ever from what i've heard. if you change it and it looks dirty or rusted or something you might notice just a bit better fuel economy

this is from just what i've heard however

 

Not so for you guys...
Beginning in 1998 (in USA) Honda quit using a normal fuel filter. There's only the fine mesh screen at the pump inlet inside the fuel tank. Other parts of the world probably use a filter, because there's a bracket and banjo fittings where it would be installed.

Earlier years still have a filter mounted somewhere on the firewall. I didn't have one, but certain years are legendary for an awkward location of the filter.

 

we have 97's though so wouldn't that mean we would still have the normal fuel filter?

 

I did some homework and from the shop manual I found on this site it looks like its under the wheel well.
http://tor.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pub...096S11117A.pdf

Not sure how you tell if you need to change it though - I have no idea how to check pressure.

Any of you with high miles on your accords ever change them? Normal maintenance or because it had issue?

 

Follow the hose (#2) from your fuel rail. It looks like it's on the firewall below the brake master cylinder. Now I understand why it's such a pain to reach.

 

You are correct - Its right under the Brake master cylinder.

Now the big question - Is there any benefit in replacing it after 150k miles? Any thoughts one way or another?

 

replace it every.. 60,000 miles ..$ 20-25 dollars well worth it...........there should be a write up on the DIY section on how to replace it ,,

 

I Found this step by step on another Accord site. For those of you who have done this, is the 'Flare Nut Crows Foot' overkill? Can you get in there with a normal wrench for the bottom nut?

From HondaSwap site - http://hondaswap.com/general-tech-ar...-accord-72590/

<excerpt>
First off, gather your tools. I put the front of the car up on jack stands, so I recommend you have a pair of those and a floor jack to raise your car up. Also, make sure you have a drain or drip pan to catch the fuel you're bound to lose. That way, you don't leak all over your driveway. THE MOST IMPORTANT TOOL FOR THIS JOB IS A 14MM FLARE NUT CROW'S FOOT. I can't stress this enough. Without this tool, you're begging for a nightmare. If you don't know what this is, a regular crow's foot looks like the open-ended part of a wrench that mounts on the end of a ratchet extension. A flare-nut crow's foot is the same thing, only it looks like the closed end part of a wrench with a small portion cut out of it. The purpose of this is to have the tool fit around the metal line, but still wrap around five of the six corners of the flare nut. That way, you can put more muscle into breaking flare nuts loose without running as much risk of stripping your flare nut as you do with an open-ended wrench or crow's foot. If you strip it, you're screwed. And if you live anywhere where it snows, it's likely that corrosion has made your flare nut difficult to remove from your fuel filter. Trust me, borrow this tool, or drop the coin to buy one. It'll make your life so much easier.

You'll also need the following tools to finish the job: 3/8 drive ratchet; 1/4 drive ratchet; 10mm socket (3/8 drive); 10mm socket (1/4 drive); 10mm deep socket (1/4 drive); 17mm socket (3/8 drive); and at least 2 feet of 3/8 drive extension of various lengths. You also might want to gather a healthy selection of screw drivers and pliers, and also a hammer and a pry bar. These items aren't essential, but might come in handy.

It is recommended that the first thing you do is release the fuel pressure. Refer to a manual for this. Also, DO NOT take the two 10mm bolts out of the bracket yet. It's easier to bust the fuel lines loose if the filter is still mounted to the car.

The second step is to pop the flare nut fitting loose on the back of the fuel filter. Take your 14mm flare nut crow's foot and put it on about 2 feet of extension on the 3/8 ratchet. Get under the car and look for the back side of the fuel filter. Once you locate it, work your crow's foot up in there, over the fuel line, and onto the flare nut. Make sure that it's fully seated, and loosen it. It might take some muscle. If you've got the right tool, don't be afraid to lay into it. Once you get it to pop, make sure you slide your drain or drip pan under to catch the fuel that might be left over after releasing the fuel pressure. Once you've got the flare nut loosened and it will turn freely, you can move on to the banjo bolt. It's okay if the flare nut is still slightly in the fuel filter. You can either turn the fuel filter or reach behind and manually spin the flare nut fitting out from above. It's easier that way.

Go up to the topside, now. Get out all two feet of 3/8 extension that you have and put the 17mm socket onto the end of it. Attach your ratchet, and work the socket down to the banjo bolt. Once you're on it, put a little muscle into it and bust it loose. Remove the banjo bolt and put it where you can find it later. Pull the fuel line up and put it out of your way.

Now, that you've got both fuel lines off (or at least loose), you can remove the 10mm bolt that holds the fuel filter bracket to the car. I recommend leaving the bolt that holds the bracket onto the filter alone and removing the filter and bracket as one piece. Use your 3/8 ratchet with a 4" extension and a 10mm socket to remove this bolt. Once that bolt's out, reach behind and finish loosening the flare nut on the back side. If you can't turn it by hand, turn the filter until it pops loose. Now, manipulate the filter and bracket past the master cylinder to remove it from the car. Trust me, it can be done. Just might take a little finesse.

One more thing to note real quick: be extra careful not to bend the bracket when you're messing with it. It'll be a pain to put the filter back in if you bend the bracket. I had to remove mine a couple of times to straighten the bracket when putting it back together.

Now that you've got the filter and bracket out, remove the bracket from the old filter using your 1/4 drive and your 10mm deep socket. Put the bracket on the new filter, aligning the tab and the slot, and tighten it to the filter. Now, you're ready to put it back in. Finesse it back into place, but before starting the bolt that holds the bracket to the car, reach behind and start threading the flare nut into the back side of the filter. Tighten the flare nut AS FAR AS YOU CAN by hand. This will make the process with the crow's foot a little easier later on. Now, put the curved tab on the fuel filter bracket into the slot on the car and put the 10mm bolt in to hold the filter in place. Tighten everything down, and you're ready to tighten your fuel lines.

The rest of the way is a snap. Put your banjo bold through your fuel line, ensuring that you replace the copper crush washers on BOTH sides of the fuel line, and tighten it into place with your 17mm socket and your two feet of extensions. Once that's done, you're finished with the top side of the car. Go back around the bottom, put your crow's foot on your extensions, and tighten the flare nut into the backside of the filter. Don't be afraid to put a little muscle into tightening both sides of the line, but don't get ridiculous. You don't want to mess anything up. Once you're all tight, start the car and inspect for leaks.