Problem is Pump will not come on to prime in order for CEL to extinguish and allow start. So, 95 accord 2.2 Non vtec f22b motor. New main fuel relay. While doing the Repair manual fuel pump test it says if there is 12v present at the 3P connector (in trunk) on the black yellow wire with the two point (Pin 4&5) jumped in the harness and key in the II position then replace the pump. Here is what I got. Pump runs with the 4/5 jumped on the Main relay plug and key in the II Posit. but when plugged into the Main relay the pump will not kick on to prime. New relay and two others spare. Tested with spare ECU. Any ideas I am very familiar with this car as you can tell by the spares. 397,000 original miles

 

Your previous test to jump two terminals only bypassed part of the circuit to provide direct power to the fuel pump.

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Do you have a multi-meter or voltmeter for testing?

There are various power (+) and ground (-) signals that must be present for the main relay to function to allow power through to the fuel pump.


There are two relay coils inside the main relay that need to be energized for power to be allowed to the fuel pump.

Check for some of the following:

• Blk ground wire from G101 needs to supply ground to main relay (at main relay connector terminal no. 3) .
• Under-hood Fuse No. 33 (ECU fuse) needs to supply power to main relay and ECU via the Wht/Grn wire at terminal no. 7).
• When starting under-dash Fuse No. 9 needs to supply power (+) via the Blu/Red wire (for cars with Auto transmission) or Blk/Grn wire (for cars with M/T) to the main relay terminal no. 2.
• ECU needs to supply ground (-) via the Grn/Blk wire to the main relay terminal no. 1.
• Under-dash Fuse No. 2 (fuel pump fuse) need to supply power via the Red/Wht wire to the main relay terminal no. 5.

 

thanks for the info. Since I have had this car a while I completely tested every possible part of the Fuel system both mechanical and Zoomy (Electrical). So Whence I got to the section in the Service manual to unplug the MFR and start measuring cont. and voltage. When I had to test for bat. voltage at the #7 white/green point there was no Bat V at all, so I checked the fuse..Good. Then by chance grabbed the wire, low and behold with the point of my test lite just tried to separate the WG wire and shazzam it came out broke..Boy I'll tell you I did the happy dance in the drive way as that is the power supply to the ECU, hence the code 0 acting like a ECU replacement, which I have been struck with in the past with the typical burnt CAP's.