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Thank you Sthompson 77 for your post and photos! I experienced the same exact problem with my glove box. Likewise, the pin in my box also broke. I haven't yet taken my box apart or found a replacement; but I hope to have the same success as you have. Thank you!
Sorry for resurrecting a dead post but I wanted to add more detail to this guide. I'm having a similar issue on a 2007 Honda Accord with a jammed glove box. The latch will open intermittently and requires some strategic banging on the cover to get it to open. My first pointer is to make sure the glove box is unlocked; the key slot will be in the vertical position when unlocked.
After removing the glove box (pop the corners through, then remove two Philips screws underneath on the hinges) and peeling off the front cover (not intended to be removed; it's heat sealed or glued to the backing) it looks to me like it's a combination of a plastic nub on the actuator arm wearing down and the stiff wire connecting the handle assembly to the latch bending/relaxing over time. There isn't enough throw (ie: movement) on the mechanism to pull the wire to release the latch. I fixed this by shortening the connecting wire by about 1/4" by re-bending the wire hook at the actuator end. Now the wire is short enough that it actually pulls the latch release when you lift the latch handle. It's a stiff wire, so I put it in the vice and used a hammer to shift the 90° bend over 1/4".
Thanks SThomson77 for the original post and photos; they helped me along the way. I think I'll try your advice of using automotive trim adhesive to glue the cover back on...
2007 Honda Accord Glove Box Latch Assembly 2007 Honda Accord Glove Box Latch Assembly Re-bend the end hook to shorten the connecting wire.
I was able to remove the glove box latch by peeling the door section away from the box. The latch does not pull the lever/rod and I can't see any reason why not. Does anyone have a description of how this latch works?
When I turn the key, the mechanism does move parts around, but in no case does pulling the user lever actually move the internal arm.
I have searched several forums and every time I see this type of post, no-one has an answer.
Update, I found a small pin with a nylon sleeve laying inside the glove box housing. I used JB Weld epoxy to put the pieces back together, although I am skeptical that it will have enough strength to hold such small parts.
Pictures show the progress of pieces in the assembly and repair.
$5-15 fix and about an hour to remove, repair, and replace glove box if yours broke like mine.
My broke the tab fairly square so it made it fairly easy to drill a small hole and still have enough meat to support the torsional forces applied on the tab from the hinge action.
Supplies:
1) 1/16in. HSS drill bit to go in your drill motor
2) 1 in. Of 1/16in. 304L welding wire. (most tig welders pros will give you one of their " filler stubs" and it will also certainly be long enough).
3) Cyanoacrylate, i.e. super glue, perma-bond, crazy glue, etc.
4) Pencil eraser
5) 150grit sandpaper 2in x 2in
I drilled a 1/16" hole in the center of the broken feature.
Then cut a 1/2" long piece of the welding wire.
Place the wire into the drill chuck and use the sandpaper to clean each end of the cut piece.
With the eraser on the pencil, drill a 1/16in hole through the center (I had a piece of HDPE, but an eraser works too)
Carefully remove the eraser from to pencil try to keep the eraser whole, but if it breaks (as long as it was a new pencil eraser) you should be fine.
Push the welding wire you cleaned into the eraser and secure it with a dab of super glue.
Let glue set(5-10 min)
Place the rod into the hole you drilled into the latch that broke.
Secure with perma bond and let it set
re install into the glove box and secure the cover with RTV.
08-12-2012, 01:29 PM
