Head bolt size
#21
Well tightening the others down didn't help any. Still just as frozen. Guy at my local rebuild shop said taking a hammer and chisel and cutting the bolt head off. Ik I can get a nut welded on top and try seein if I can get it out that way and someone else suggested heating it up but, if you've seen any of the more recent pics I have up of it, you know I can't move the car anywhere right now and I don't have a welder or torch. So... Any other suggestions..? :/
#22
I'd try the heat, although I'm not sure how well it will help since the threads are so far away from the head, but its worth a shot.
Worst case scenario is you spend $15 on a propane torch and just end up with a half filled spider killer.
Worst case scenario is you spend $15 on a propane torch and just end up with a half filled spider killer.
#23
Heat might make situation worse depending on how much heat gets to the head. Thermal expansion coefficient of aluminum is greater than steel, so head will expand more than bolt if temps are same. If heat can be concentrated on bolt, it could help.
Nut added to existing bolt head is best bet, but get someone to weld that will do a good job since so much torque is need to break bolt loose.
good luck
Nut added to existing bolt head is best bet, but get someone to weld that will do a good job since so much torque is need to break bolt loose.
good luck
#24
Just my take, I would stay away from heat because aluminium head is WAY softer compared to the Hardened steel Bolt.
You CANNOT chisel or hammer it off, it's not a regular bolt. Also, space is tight to chisel and while doing that, you might damage some valve spring or head itself.
Have you tried something similar to this:
9 Piece 3/8" Drive Metric Bolt Extractor Sockets
OR
9 Piece 3/8" Drive SAE Bolt Extractor Sockets
I was able to crack '3' bolts by using the above ones.
Welding is DEFINITELY a good choice, as long as you have the means and know how to do it.
Have a look on the first page, since I was in the exact same boat as you and can TOTALLY UNDERSTAND your frustration:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...t-f22b1-55347/
You CANNOT chisel or hammer it off, it's not a regular bolt. Also, space is tight to chisel and while doing that, you might damage some valve spring or head itself.
Have you tried something similar to this:
9 Piece 3/8" Drive Metric Bolt Extractor Sockets
OR
9 Piece 3/8" Drive SAE Bolt Extractor Sockets
I was able to crack '3' bolts by using the above ones.
Welding is DEFINITELY a good choice, as long as you have the means and know how to do it.
Have a look on the first page, since I was in the exact same boat as you and can TOTALLY UNDERSTAND your frustration:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...t-f22b1-55347/
Last edited by faran; 07-30-2013 at 09:13 AM.
#25
So you ended up having to drill it out..? I'm in pretty much the same boat almost you're right. Didn't know anything about lossening them in order. My first mistake. And I didn't have a real good, strong breaker bar either.
#27
Tried it. Accomplished nothing. Don't have anyone that wants to help me with my car even tho I know people that could help me plenty. They just don't. Thats what led me here. So I don't have anyone to hold the socket down while I try to turn it. Even the bolt extractor turns off of it. Would take to my gfs dad to get him to weld a nut on top of the bolt head but I can't move the car and no cherry picker to take the motor out with.
#28
Coworker came over and is at my house. So far he's broke two sockets tryin to get them out even after tightening down the other 5 bolts... Am I going to have to drill them at this point probably?
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