Head Replacement
#1
Head Replacement
Alright, I have been having issues with my car and not knowing what they where as some of you may know already. Well yesterday I had a friend come over and look at my car and he told me that I was only running off of one cylinder and probably had a crack in the cylinder head. I plan on going to the junk yard to get a new block but before I go I was wondering, is there anything I should watch out for?
Last edited by sumpump_1203; 07-02-2009 at 08:57 PM.
#2
Crack in cylinder head or leaking head gasket is possible. Cracked block is possible but unlikely.
I look for used parts that are stored inside from weather and inventoried (they know what they have and don't have).
good luck
I look for used parts that are stored inside from weather and inventoried (they know what they have and don't have).
good luck
#4
Alright Im going to start the job text book style, lol. Just on question. What is the easiest way to find TDC? should I just turn it till it lines up or should I ust the chinese method and drop a chopstick in it till it pops up? If I take the plug out and use the stick how do I turn the cam to get it in TDC? Do I just rotate the pully till it lines up or do I have to use a socket wrench to move it? I gues Im asking is should It turn by hand or tool?
Also when I line up the top pully to TDC does that line up the bottom as well?
Thanks
Also when I line up the top pully to TDC does that line up the bottom as well?
Thanks
#5
I would use a deep 19mm socket and turn the crankshaft using a socket wrench. Remember to turn it counterclockwise.
The timing mark for the crank pulley is a white mark on the pulley. The reference point is on the lower timing belt cover. The cam marks are on the cam sprocket and line up with a cover on the cylinder head.
When you remove the crank pulley, there are marks on the sprockets and engine block that are much easier to see.
The timing mark for the crank pulley is a white mark on the pulley. The reference point is on the lower timing belt cover. The cam marks are on the cam sprocket and line up with a cover on the cylinder head.
When you remove the crank pulley, there are marks on the sprockets and engine block that are much easier to see.
#6
I would not do this job w/o a manual. You can download the 94-97 Accord manual from Online Manuals post in DIY section. There are several wiring harness supports, intake manifold support fasteners under the intake manifold to be released.
good luck
good luck
#7
No, yeah I have DL'ed the manual and I have a Chilton that has earned its keep, lol. The thing is neither one tell yo how to find TDC they just tell you to make sure it is TDC.
I have questions though though. DO you have to jack the car up in order to do the job or can I leave it on all four? Also, the crank pully, I am asuming that that is the lower one correct? The one with the white and red marks?
One more I promise then Ill leave you alone unless I run into and issue. How heavy is the cylinder head? 10,15lbs? I also read somewhere that if your doing it by yourself to take the Intake manifold off so you dont bump or damage it. I have also read you dont have to and its less wrok just to leav it on. Should I take it off or leave it on? Is it heavy enough to where I might accidently lose grip and damage it?
I have questions though though. DO you have to jack the car up in order to do the job or can I leave it on all four? Also, the crank pully, I am asuming that that is the lower one correct? The one with the white and red marks?
One more I promise then Ill leave you alone unless I run into and issue. How heavy is the cylinder head? 10,15lbs? I also read somewhere that if your doing it by yourself to take the Intake manifold off so you dont bump or damage it. I have also read you dont have to and its less wrok just to leav it on. Should I take it off or leave it on? Is it heavy enough to where I might accidently lose grip and damage it?
#9
You will need to elevate the front end on jack stands to access the fasteners underneath the intake manifold. You could work on ground and elevate only for those occasions. This will make it easier to install the head.
I used two people to install the head to avoid accidentally bouncing the head on the gasket. Also a thin board on each end of block allows you to to set the head down above the gasket, and sequentially lower the head onto the gasket very carefully, one end at a time. It can be tricky to find the alignment studs and know you are on them and this procedure helps again.
Chase all threads w/ correct metric tap before installing head and clean the holes w/ blown air. Lubricate bolts w/ motor oil for correct torque and bolt tension.
Also there is 1 long bolt on back row of bolts. Be sure to note which hole it belongs to. Manual doesn't have this noted.
good luck
I used two people to install the head to avoid accidentally bouncing the head on the gasket. Also a thin board on each end of block allows you to to set the head down above the gasket, and sequentially lower the head onto the gasket very carefully, one end at a time. It can be tricky to find the alignment studs and know you are on them and this procedure helps again.
Chase all threads w/ correct metric tap before installing head and clean the holes w/ blown air. Lubricate bolts w/ motor oil for correct torque and bolt tension.
Also there is 1 long bolt on back row of bolts. Be sure to note which hole it belongs to. Manual doesn't have this noted.
good luck
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