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heater blows cold, temp gauge runs to high - sometimes

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Old Dec 9, 2012 | 01:40 PM
  #11  
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ok, to confirm i understand: put a p'clip into both sides of the female connector as your diagram indicates. Attach coated copper wire from that clip to the + side of batt, turn key to on pos II and fans should spin. is that accurate? And I can try this on both the rad and AC fans, correct? If the fans don't spin, then I have a switch problem, is that correct?

Does the AC work? the AC is on the list of things on this car that hasn't worked for years. every once in a while during particularly hot days, i turn it on and get a slightly cooler air coming out of the vents. but that is about it.

and I will try the above jumping of the fans as soon as I have confirmation that I understand correctly (don't want to shock myself doing this or cause further damage to the beater so am being careful I understand the steps) and deal with some issues with my mom in the hospital. A perfect storm of a weekend!
 
Old Dec 9, 2012 | 01:47 PM
  #12  
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NO, NO, NO.

Sorry I gave two methods before.

Using the thermo switch in the bottom right/pass side of the rad....the switch that screws into to the rad. Pull that connector and jump the wire side with a paper clip and turn the car to on......DO NOT put power to this connection.
 
Old Dec 9, 2012 | 01:53 PM
  #13  
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Like this
 
Attached Thumbnails heater blows cold, temp gauge runs to high - sometimes-3rd-gen-fan-thermo-sensor.jpg  
Old Dec 9, 2012 | 02:04 PM
  #14  
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sorry, but still a tad confused. when doing thru a forum, i need to have things pretty explicit:
1. I disengage the bottom switch on the pass side fan.
2. Do I put the p'clip jumper on the rad side of the sswitch or the wire side that comes from the engine side? you said the wire side above - which i am calling the engine side. why would the p'clip go in that side? is that the female side? aren't i trying to figure out if the fan spins, so wouldn't i put the clip on the fan side?
3. by putting the power on, i don't mean to turn the engine over and try to start it. Just turn the key to on. that is what you mean?
4. and should I do this on the fan on the driver side, too?

Sorry for the hand holding....but thanks.
 
Old Dec 9, 2012 | 02:13 PM
  #15  
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Sorry for the confusion, I'm a bit off today....long story and only redbull would know.

I want to jump the thermo switch on the lower right/pass side of the rad. This is the switch that screws into the rad.....not the wire harness to the fan motor....the switch as seen in my pic.

So we need a reset.....again this is my fault. Do you want to test the fan motor or test the switch?
 
Old Dec 9, 2012 | 02:18 PM
  #16  
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i want to test everything I need to to get the problem figured out. so what i am thinking is that i need to see if the switches to the fans are working, and if the fans are working it seems. However, if I thought the problem was just the thermostat I would just replace that. however, you guys have got me thinking (rightfully so) it could be one of the fans. when I replaced the rad several years ago, I had to replace one of the fans too, as the blades had bent.

I need to head to hospital, but if you could just let me know instructions for testing both switches and both fans that would be great. Plus any other thoughts,t oo. thanks again.
 
Old Dec 9, 2012 | 02:31 PM
  #17  
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I'd like to start with jumping the thermo switch....again the switch that is screwed into the lower right of the rad.

Jump the wire side/female/engine side of this connector just as the pic shows with a paperclip.

Key to on (not to start but the position where the key would be before stating)

0 = key out
I = acces on
II = on
III = starting - starter spins. let go and the key goes back to II.
 
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