2003 Accord Sedan 4cyl Automatic

When we try to start it it seems like the battery is either low or drained. REAL sluggish... In some cases it does not start at all (like a dead battery)
but the battery is brand new and reading over 12 volts.

When it gets to the point of not starting at all, I put the car in neutral and this seems to help sometimes. Running the shifter in and out of park seems to help.

Yesterday it was cold (in the 40's) and it really had a hard time wanting to start... I noticed a buzzing sound, like the starter clicking or a relay buzzing and the "D" light came on for a few seconds while it was trying to start.

I am at a loss... local auto parts store says it needs a new starter (but then again they are the ones that at first said it was the battery and sold me a new one) I read it might be a "Neutral Safety Switch" or a "Main Relay"

Any help at all is much appreciated.

 

Check, clean and tighten all connections of the battery cables. If you have a volt meter, after cleaning everything, check the voltage drop at the starter......

 

I would agree w the NSS or Main relay possibilities. Had a buddy with a bad main relay w similar symptoms. Think it was like $50 and minutes worth of labor.

 

Thank you for the help! Car is fixed!

I checked the main relay and all connections first... apparently you can listen to the number of clicks coming from the relay as you turn the ignition and it checked out... see below:
TROUBLESHOOTING THE MAIN RELAY
You may read the FAQ for more basic troubleshooting, otherwise just follow this troubleshooting flow chart before performing the main relay bench test.
The main relay typically fails in three ways.

1. One is when there is only 1 click after turning the key and the fuel pump won't run.
2. The second is when the check engine light is steady on (no clicks) and the fuel pump won't run.
3. The third, most uncommon, is when the check engine light goes on and off normally (click on and click off normally) and the fuel pump won't run. This symptom needs to be tested in order to rule out the possibility of a dead fuel pump or a bad power supply that is too low to run the fuel pump.

I then disconnected the small wire from the starter and hooked a volt meter to it... had the wife turn the ignition and the meter read 12+ volts. This told me it was a bum starter. New one cost me $125. and the job was pretty darn easy using the two .pdf links below. One note, I was able to save some time by not disconencting the throttle and cc cables and swinging the manifold away carefully. Still had plenty of room to work on things.

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/at...9&d=1234458460

http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/at...8&d=1234458339

Thanks again everyone for the help!