HELP: battery light coming on
#1
HELP: battery light coming on
I had gotten my Optima Yellowtop tested while installed and they said it wasnt charging right. So I replaced it yesterday with a Diehard Platinum...this morning, same problem...bat light flickers on and off. It seems to do it when I brake hard too. The car is an 03 accord V6 with 6-spd tranny. I got a 200 amp Excessive Amperage alternator in it as well. I had issues with the first one squeaking, so this is my second,..it still squeaks. I put this new one in in like December of 08 so its not old. Big 3 (chassis/block grounds + alt-->bat positive) is done in 0awg wire. Any ideas?
#2
I'm not familiar with that alternator, but I gotta ask whether it can properly deal with the Honda scheme of alternator control. The ECU can switch-off the alternator when it wants to, based on voltage and the signal from the ELD.
Are your high-power stereo things powered through the ELD, so the ECU can measure their current draw?
Are your high-power stereo things powered through the ELD, so the ECU can measure their current draw?
#3
im not exactly sure what you mean. ill try to explain how everythings hooke dup in detail...
I have 2 aftermarket amplifiers. theyre capable of pushing 2500-2800W continuous, however the way theyre hooked up now theyre only pushing about 1800-2000W. theyre grounded in the trunk and share a run of 0awg wire up to the engine bay. that run is ANL fused about a foot from the battery. so this run goes straight to the bat. the alternator is designed for my car, i had it custom built. whether the builder knows of this ECU issue you speak of or not, its not something i have any clue about. i have the stock alt wires hooked up PLUS another run of 0awg straight from the alt to the battery (not fused...i know it probably should be :/ ). then i have a run of 0awg from the bat to the chassis, and then another from the chassis to the block. these are all direct connections, they dont run to/through any other mechanisms in the vehicle. i hope this helps clarify how it's all setup.
on a good note, i regrounded the bat-->chassis ground and it appears to have stopped the light coming on. my Optima IS def bad, i rechecked it today out of the car. and my bat-->chassis looked and felt fine, but i guess you can never be too sure if you dont rip out and retry. ill be back if i have more issues.
but please explain to me more about this ECU issue, im very interested now...
I have 2 aftermarket amplifiers. theyre capable of pushing 2500-2800W continuous, however the way theyre hooked up now theyre only pushing about 1800-2000W. theyre grounded in the trunk and share a run of 0awg wire up to the engine bay. that run is ANL fused about a foot from the battery. so this run goes straight to the bat. the alternator is designed for my car, i had it custom built. whether the builder knows of this ECU issue you speak of or not, its not something i have any clue about. i have the stock alt wires hooked up PLUS another run of 0awg straight from the alt to the battery (not fused...i know it probably should be :/ ). then i have a run of 0awg from the bat to the chassis, and then another from the chassis to the block. these are all direct connections, they dont run to/through any other mechanisms in the vehicle. i hope this helps clarify how it's all setup.
on a good note, i regrounded the bat-->chassis ground and it appears to have stopped the light coming on. my Optima IS def bad, i rechecked it today out of the car. and my bat-->chassis looked and felt fine, but i guess you can never be too sure if you dont rip out and retry. ill be back if i have more issues.
but please explain to me more about this ECU issue, im very interested now...
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