I got a P1457 code so I got a new purge valve and canister while I was at it. The bolts on my old canister wouldn't dare let me get the old one off. Intermotor has a fairly cheap replacement so I grabbed it.


My issue is the damn 12mm bolt won't come off. I got all the hoses off already no problem. The bolt is old, rusted, and just won't move, plus now it is totally stripped from all my fiddling.

Here is what I did so far:
- Penetrating oil
- Vise grips
- Socket extractor (had the wrong size, trying a new 12mm extractor tomorrow, hope that works)
- Tried to hammer it off with a flathead or other tools but the problem is the mounting bracket is just loose up there so hammering doesn't do much (not stable piece)
- Vise grips did nothing, no leverage and cant move them well due to the layout of canister and area
- heat (worried about fuel vapor so I won't do any heat)

It's in a really tough spot to do much. Any tips on how to get off this rusted bolt or if you have a tool you recommend I need it. I saw a G2 socket from Scotty on Youtube and was thinking of buying it any thoughts?

 

Got the 12mm socket extractor. The only one in my area didn't have a socket attached to it which is a pain and the adapter doesn't quite fit in that damn tiny spot. I tried it but no luck. I just oiled the nut again and will try in 30 mins or so. If that doesn't work I have to tow the car to my local mechanic. Such a bummer for such a damn small thing. Any advice or help?

 

Have you tried drilling it out yet? That's what I plan on doing on my own. I've watch a couple of you tube vids to see it's a pretty common deal for that bolt (and it's partner (yes 2 screws)) to be rusted in place. Although I thought those screws were10mm.
I've been just living with the light being on, or occasionally clearing the code. That, and I need to find the valve I bought. D'oh.

 

no, I can't get any leverage on that bolt as nothing stable is behind it just a floating bracket that wobbles. I am taking it to the mechanic tomorrow and letting them do it. Disappointing but sometimes it's best to let the pros do some work.

UPDATED:
I ended up going back to work on the bolt "one last time" and I am glad I did as I got the damn thing off!! I installed the canister and purge shutoff valve and no more check engine light.
Here is how I did it:
- applied 3-IN-ONE oil to area, waited 1 hour
- pulled the canister down extremely hard while using vise-grips on the bolt area and pulling that back to have more space for the nut extractor
- put a piece of wood behind bracket (see first photo) to give it more stability so that I could hammer away at it and get the extractor nut locked on that stubborn bolt
- switched between 12mm #4 and 13mm nut extractor from Sears using lots of strength mixed with hitting it damn hard on and off to get the nut extractor "locked on" with small sledge
- Slowly but surely I got some small movement but not much. I shifted to an IRWIN extractor set that was 13mm hammering to lock it on and then it happened to turn.
- I cannot stress the "hard" factor here of getting this damn bolt off. By the end of it my face was covered in rust and my back had bruises on it from laying under the car but it paid off! I am glad I wore protective glasses and gloves. Rust was flying everywhere with this job and at one time I accidentally spilled half the can of 3-IN-ONE oil where I was working. I also had a mounted headlight on me which really helped.

You can see the bolt (see photos) is really nasty with nothing to grab onto and all the rust on the bolt was actually worn down. I am really happy I got this damn thing off and didnt have to tow my car to the mechanic!!
I install the canister very simply and drove my car and the engine light went off. There was a knock at the back of my car the first time the valve opened up, I assume from the back pressure of a buildup of gas maybe. I'm watching it but all seems well after that.

 

Congrats on getting that bolt off. Doesn't look like much to grab onto. At least persistence paid off. Thanks for the photos too, as they give a great visual. I hope you put some stainless steel screws back in place to keep it from rusting again.

 

Thanks, the car has strength but I had endurance and endurance won out.

I ended up putting an automotive screw from Lowes that are steel and coated with black phosphate which resists rust from what I understand. I have learned that even stainless doesn't always last, especially with Ohio weather.