HOW TO ..OIL PAN GASKET 90-97 Accords
Can someone elaborate on the little metal rings that can become attached to the block when the oil pan is removed. How many of them are their? Are they only associated with the 6 studs that are part of the block? Where do they belong?
Thanks
Thanks
Oil pan gasket replacement 90-97 accords.
tools needed,, 10mm, 12mm, 14 mm sockets, 17 mm wrench or socket, extensions,( short and long) rachet, braker bar, pan to drain oil ,wd-40 or equivalent . screwdriver, scraper,
supply needed :
an gasket, ( use a Honda factory gasket part # 11251-POA-OOO ,,27-28 dollars, ), honda bond or equivalent , motor oil, drain plug gasket ( oil filter ) 3m spray adhesive
Raise the frt of car up, put jack stands, pull up on e-brake,
from undr the car use the 17 mm wrench or socket to remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil ,,if oil is fairly new you can reuse it other wise install new oil and filter . Once oil has drained out, reistall new gasket on drain plug and reinstall drain plug , tighten it ,
spray wd-40 on the frt + rear frt exhaust pite nuts, let is soak in a little while , use the 14 mm socket, extension and pry bar, remove the frt and rear frt exhaust pipe nuts ( 6 total) , use the 12 mm socket and rachet and remove the lower braket nuts for the frt exhaust pipe to block , ( just behind the oil pan ) , remove the frt exh pipe you might have to pry on the bracket with the screwdriver ,
Use the 14 mm socket, exention and pry bar, remove the bolts for the frt/rear beam .
Use the 10mm socket, remove the bolts for the flywheel cover , if car is auto tranny you need to also remove the 3, 12 mm bolts for the tranny shifter cable cover
use the 10mm socket, extension and the rachet, remove all the bolts and nuts for the oil pan, Oil pan should drop down, in some cases you might have to pry a bit...
clean the oil pan real good, and the block surface , make sure that at the corners the little metal rings DO NOT stick up on the block if they do and you install the pan,, you will have an oil leak, so make sure the block surface is real clean,
once block surface and oil pan are clean and dried , using the 3m spray adhesive, spray some on the block ( do not overdue it) you want to spray just enough so gasket will stick in place .. and spray some on the side of the gasket that will go on the block, apply a little amount of honda bond to the curved edge of the pan gakset that will mate to the block and on the opposite side , the small flat side ,, stick the pan gakset on the block, make sure to line up all the holes properly,,
Once gasket is up, put a lite amount of honda bond on the curved side on the oil pan and on the small flat side ,,, install the oil pan,
make sure all the bolts and nuts are started before you start tighten them up. tightening sequence go from the middle to the outside criss cross frt and rear,, DO NOT overtighten the pan bolts and nuts ..once all tightened,, reinstall the rest of the items you removed , make sure all bolts and nuts are tight
TORQUE specs .for pan bolts+ nuts is 10 ft lbs,, if you have a torque wrench .
PERSONALLY I prefer to use the rachet + extension, i get more feel that way
after you add oil, start the engine up , let it run and make sure that there is no leak .
P..S..
someties the old pan gaskets bakes to the pan, it gets hard and it is a real, real, real PITA to scrape off,, the best way to get it off is to heat it up , this softens the gasket and it comes off easy,, use a little propane torch , heat the underside of the pan where the gasket is, where bolts holes are, this softens the gasket and peels right off ,,make sure not to grab the heated gasket trying to remove it with your hand , it will burn,, just use some pliers
tools needed,, 10mm, 12mm, 14 mm sockets, 17 mm wrench or socket, extensions,( short and long) rachet, braker bar, pan to drain oil ,wd-40 or equivalent . screwdriver, scraper,
supply needed :
an gasket, ( use a Honda factory gasket part # 11251-POA-OOO ,,27-28 dollars, ), honda bond or equivalent , motor oil, drain plug gasket ( oil filter ) 3m spray adhesive Raise the frt of car up, put jack stands, pull up on e-brake,
from undr the car use the 17 mm wrench or socket to remove the oil drain plug and drain the oil ,,if oil is fairly new you can reuse it other wise install new oil and filter . Once oil has drained out, reistall new gasket on drain plug and reinstall drain plug , tighten it ,
spray wd-40 on the frt + rear frt exhaust pite nuts, let is soak in a little while , use the 14 mm socket, extension and pry bar, remove the frt and rear frt exhaust pipe nuts ( 6 total) , use the 12 mm socket and rachet and remove the lower braket nuts for the frt exhaust pipe to block , ( just behind the oil pan ) , remove the frt exh pipe you might have to pry on the bracket with the screwdriver ,
Use the 14 mm socket, exention and pry bar, remove the bolts for the frt/rear beam .
Use the 10mm socket, remove the bolts for the flywheel cover , if car is auto tranny you need to also remove the 3, 12 mm bolts for the tranny shifter cable cover
use the 10mm socket, extension and the rachet, remove all the bolts and nuts for the oil pan, Oil pan should drop down, in some cases you might have to pry a bit...
clean the oil pan real good, and the block surface , make sure that at the corners the little metal rings DO NOT stick up on the block if they do and you install the pan,, you will have an oil leak, so make sure the block surface is real clean,
once block surface and oil pan are clean and dried , using the 3m spray adhesive, spray some on the block ( do not overdue it) you want to spray just enough so gasket will stick in place .. and spray some on the side of the gasket that will go on the block, apply a little amount of honda bond to the curved edge of the pan gakset that will mate to the block and on the opposite side , the small flat side ,, stick the pan gakset on the block, make sure to line up all the holes properly,,
Once gasket is up, put a lite amount of honda bond on the curved side on the oil pan and on the small flat side ,,, install the oil pan,
make sure all the bolts and nuts are started before you start tighten them up. tightening sequence go from the middle to the outside criss cross frt and rear,, DO NOT overtighten the pan bolts and nuts ..once all tightened,, reinstall the rest of the items you removed , make sure all bolts and nuts are tight
TORQUE specs .for pan bolts+ nuts is 10 ft lbs,, if you have a torque wrench .
PERSONALLY I prefer to use the rachet + extension, i get more feel that way
after you add oil, start the engine up , let it run and make sure that there is no leak .
P..S..
someties the old pan gaskets bakes to the pan, it gets hard and it is a real, real, real PITA to scrape off,, the best way to get it off is to heat it up , this softens the gasket and it comes off easy,, use a little propane torch , heat the underside of the pan where the gasket is, where bolts holes are, this softens the gasket and peels right off ,,make sure not to grab the heated gasket trying to remove it with your hand , it will burn,, just use some pliers
I think Desert was talking about this...
Built into the gasket are little metal rings, like washers, around the bolts/studs. Sometimes the old gasket is hardened & sticks. When you peel & scrape it off, these little metal rings stick & stay behind. Remove them from around all the studs or bolt holes.
Otherwise, you'll have BOTH the old & new rings on top of each other. Then it'll leak. Kinda like if you had the old gasket from an oil filter stuck to the engine...
Built into the gasket are little metal rings, like washers, around the bolts/studs. Sometimes the old gasket is hardened & sticks. When you peel & scrape it off, these little metal rings stick & stay behind. Remove them from around all the studs or bolt holes.
Otherwise, you'll have BOTH the old & new rings on top of each other. Then it'll leak. Kinda like if you had the old gasket from an oil filter stuck to the engine...
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