Incredibly Fast Brake Rotor Warping
ORIGINAL: BlkCurrantKord
Cheap steel in the rotors would be my guess. Go with some Oem Honda's or Brembo
Cheap steel in the rotors would be my guess. Go with some Oem Honda's or Brembo
I suspect you are getting cheap parts put on your car as well. Tire/alignment shops might do that to you. Whipout your local Yellow Pages. Find a Honda Certified shop, it doesn't have to be a dealership. I found around here that Honda certified shops are much cheaper than the dealerships. You can be sure they will install factory Honda parts. If they didn't they wouldn't be Honda certified
I checked through the phone book and looked at some of the websites the shops had up and I chose one thathas a Honda certified master tech with around 30 years of experienceand another Honda certified tech that has been working on Honda's for 20+ years. I trusted they would do quality work on my car. I got my t-belt,H20 pump, etc.. changed and while they were doing that I told them to go ahead & resurface the rotors (car was shaking terribly when I braked) and all is well.

I checked through the phone book and looked at some of the websites the shops had up and I chose one thathas a Honda certified master tech with around 30 years of experienceand another Honda certified tech that has been working on Honda's for 20+ years. I trusted they would do quality work on my car. I got my t-belt,H20 pump, etc.. changed and while they were doing that I told them to go ahead & resurface the rotors (car was shaking terribly when I braked) and all is well.
ORIGINAL: 00AccordLX5spd
I suspect you are getting cheap parts put on your car as well. Tire/alignment shops might do that to you. Whipout your local Yellow Pages. Find a Honda Certified shop, it doesn't have to be a dealership. I found around here that Honda certified shops are much cheaper than the dealerships. You can be sure they will install factory Honda parts. If they didn't they wouldn't be Honda certified
I checked through the phone book and looked at some of the websites the shops had up and I chose one thathas a Honda certified master tech with around 30 years of experienceand another Honda certified tech that has been working on Honda's for 20+ years. I trusted they would do quality work on my car. I got my t-belt,H20 pump, etc.. changed and while they were doing that I told them to go ahead & resurface the rotors (car was shaking terribly when I braked) and all is well.
I suspect you are getting cheap parts put on your car as well. Tire/alignment shops might do that to you. Whipout your local Yellow Pages. Find a Honda Certified shop, it doesn't have to be a dealership. I found around here that Honda certified shops are much cheaper than the dealerships. You can be sure they will install factory Honda parts. If they didn't they wouldn't be Honda certified

I checked through the phone book and looked at some of the websites the shops had up and I chose one thathas a Honda certified master tech with around 30 years of experienceand another Honda certified tech that has been working on Honda's for 20+ years. I trusted they would do quality work on my car. I got my t-belt,H20 pump, etc.. changed and while they were doing that I told them to go ahead & resurface the rotors (car was shaking terribly when I braked) and all is well.
Ok, I called Midas, where I got the job done last time, and the guy said they have their own Midas brand of rotors. He said he'd try to find the problem and if not he would install another brand for me. I don't know if I should just go ahead and order rotors to be prepared for them not finding the problem or not. Another question, if I go brembo, I can either get $70 non-cross drilled/slotted rotors, or $200 cross drilled/slotted rotors. Any recommendations?
I've used Brembo many times onseveral cars (2 VWs, 2 Saabs, 3 HondAcuras) with good results.
One bad thing with fresh rotors is coming to a complete stop with the rotor hot. Brake pad material imprints unevenly and the rotor cools unevenly because one region is clamped tightly in the caliper.
Try breaking in your brakes with the following procedure. Many times 'warped' rotors aren't really warped. Pad material needs toget imprinted onto the rotor surface. With fresh rotors (or freshly resurfaced rotors) you want this to happen as uniform as possible, then they seem to be OK in the long run.
First, make sure you clean offthe greasy coating with brake cleaner solvent. It's only there so they don't rust in the box.
Find someplace where you can do this without getting stupid & dangerous in traffic.
1)Brake HARD from say 50mph to 10. DO NOT STOP COMPLETELY.
2) Drive around for a couple minutes so they cool down.
3) Do this again for maybe 10 or 20 times. Doesn't have to be one after the other. You can drive in a sane manner for an hour inbetween if traffic needs.
ps...
I wouldn't bother with cross-drilled rotors unless you doany realroad racing.
One bad thing with fresh rotors is coming to a complete stop with the rotor hot. Brake pad material imprints unevenly and the rotor cools unevenly because one region is clamped tightly in the caliper.
Try breaking in your brakes with the following procedure. Many times 'warped' rotors aren't really warped. Pad material needs toget imprinted onto the rotor surface. With fresh rotors (or freshly resurfaced rotors) you want this to happen as uniform as possible, then they seem to be OK in the long run.
First, make sure you clean offthe greasy coating with brake cleaner solvent. It's only there so they don't rust in the box.
Find someplace where you can do this without getting stupid & dangerous in traffic.
1)Brake HARD from say 50mph to 10. DO NOT STOP COMPLETELY.
2) Drive around for a couple minutes so they cool down.
3) Do this again for maybe 10 or 20 times. Doesn't have to be one after the other. You can drive in a sane manner for an hour inbetween if traffic needs.
ps...
I wouldn't bother with cross-drilled rotors unless you doany realroad racing.
ORIGINAL: JimBlake
I've used Brembo many times onseveral cars (2 VWs, 2 Saabs, 3 HondAcuras) with good results.
One bad thing with fresh rotors is coming to a complete stop with the rotor hot. Brake pad material imprints unevenly and the rotor cools unevenly because one region is clamped tightly in the caliper.
Try breaking in your brakes with the following procedure. Many times 'warped' rotors aren't really warped. Pad material needs toget imprinted onto the rotor surface. With fresh rotors (or freshly resurfaced rotors) you want this to happen as uniform as possible, then they seem to be OK in the long run.
First, make sure you clean offthe greasy coating with brake cleaner solvent. It's only there so they don't rust in the box.
Find someplace where you can do this without getting stupid & dangerous in traffic.
1)Brake HARD from say 50mph to 10. DO NOT STOP COMPLETELY.
2) Drive around for a couple minutes so they cool down.
3) Do this again for maybe 10 or 20 times. Doesn't have to be one after the other. You can drive in a sane manner for an hour inbetween if traffic needs.
ps...
I wouldn't bother with cross-drilled rotors unless you doany realroad racing.
I've used Brembo many times onseveral cars (2 VWs, 2 Saabs, 3 HondAcuras) with good results.
One bad thing with fresh rotors is coming to a complete stop with the rotor hot. Brake pad material imprints unevenly and the rotor cools unevenly because one region is clamped tightly in the caliper.
Try breaking in your brakes with the following procedure. Many times 'warped' rotors aren't really warped. Pad material needs toget imprinted onto the rotor surface. With fresh rotors (or freshly resurfaced rotors) you want this to happen as uniform as possible, then they seem to be OK in the long run.
First, make sure you clean offthe greasy coating with brake cleaner solvent. It's only there so they don't rust in the box.
Find someplace where you can do this without getting stupid & dangerous in traffic.
1)Brake HARD from say 50mph to 10. DO NOT STOP COMPLETELY.
2) Drive around for a couple minutes so they cool down.
3) Do this again for maybe 10 or 20 times. Doesn't have to be one after the other. You can drive in a sane manner for an hour inbetween if traffic needs.
ps...
I wouldn't bother with cross-drilled rotors unless you doany realroad racing.
I doubt most people bed in the pads like you're saying, and they seem to do okay brake wise, so I'm not sure why I'd HAVE to do it just to get some decent mileage out of my rotors. Do I need to do pads with the new rotors even if the pads are okay?
Most shops test-drive the car & feel the shaking during braking. They don't always use a dial indicator to actually measure the TIR of the rotor. It takes an engineering geek to appreciate the difference between warping vs. non-uniform friction coefficient.
I've hadgood success evendoing justa halfhearted attempt at it. Don't worry too much about it. Try the bedding-in procedure afteryou get home.
I've hadgood success evendoing justa halfhearted attempt at it. Don't worry too much about it. Try the bedding-in procedure afteryou get home.
Are all of your rotors getting warped, or just one of them? Are the brake pads wearing evenly?
If one caliper is not releasing properly, then the dragging of the brake pad may heat up one rotor causing warping.
You can test this by driving down a country road for a while and allow the car to coast to a stop on the side of the road. (do not hit the brake at all) All the rotors should be cool to the touch.
If one caliper is not releasing properly, then the dragging of the brake pad may heat up one rotor causing warping.
You can test this by driving down a country road for a while and allow the car to coast to a stop on the side of the road. (do not hit the brake at all) All the rotors should be cool to the touch.
ORIGINAL: PAhonda
Are all of your rotors getting warped, or just one of them? Are the brake pads wearing evenly?
If one caliper is not releasing properly, then the dragging of the brake pad may heat up one rotor causing warping.
You can test this by driving down a country road for a while and allow the car to coast to a stop on the side of the road. (do not hit the brake at all) All the rotors should be cool to the touch.
Are all of your rotors getting warped, or just one of them? Are the brake pads wearing evenly?
If one caliper is not releasing properly, then the dragging of the brake pad may heat up one rotor causing warping.
You can test this by driving down a country road for a while and allow the car to coast to a stop on the side of the road. (do not hit the brake at all) All the rotors should be cool to the touch.
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