I have read and re-read previous posts on this issue and my head is swimming. So, I've decided to ask my question outright and see if anyone can help. I have a '92 Accord EX wagon. I purchased it last summer with a fresh a/c charge. It kept me cool all summer. At the end of summer it was blowing air, but not cold. I do not know then if the fan was working or not. I let the problem sit over the winter. Now, when the interior a/c switch is activated I do not hear a click from the condensor and the cooling fan does not come on. The belts are working fine. I jumped the circuit to the battery and the fan does work. I have several questions. Will the fan stop working if the pressure is low? Or will the fan engage even with low pressure? If it's a pressure problem I need to check it.
If low pressure wouldn't deactivate then I move on to this.....Since I know the fan works can I jump the circuit (I think that's what you say) using new wire, butt connectors and a fuse tap so that the fan motor will disengage when the car is turned off? If that will work then I can check pressure and refill if necessary. It's getting hot and I need help. Thank you so much for any replies.

 

condensor fan won't come on if the system is low or empty, or if the a/c clutch is not engaging. the first thing you need to do is determine if the system has any refrigerant in it, regardless of what anybody will tell you, that's always the first step. don't go rigging any wiring, you WILL cause more problems for yourself.

 

I checked to see if the condensor fan was getting power and my meter said no. So, I'm assuming there is an electrical problem? Or would it also show no power to fan if the system is low/empty? I'm going to get the pressure checked tomorrow, hopefully. If there is pressure, or if I get the system to the correct pressure and the condensor fan still doesn't work, I'm then going to try to test the compressor clutch. Does this seem like the correct process? Or should I test the clutch first before correcting the pressure so I could then run a dye test to see if there is a leak before adding refrigerant? I'd hate to fill the thing up and then for it to leak out only to fill it again. Could someone let me know the process they would use to troubleshoot?

 

no, no, no & no...did you read my first post? you won't have power to the condesor fan if the system is not operating. jumping the comp. clutch with no refrigerant in the system will grenade it...or greatly shorten its life at best. take it to a shop and have the system checked with gages and then go from there...tell them it was working last year, you think there is a leak and have them dye the system. don't go doing things twice or three times to get it done right once.

 

No need to be harsh. I'm new to working on my own car. Maybe you'd be less critical if you knew I am a single mom looking to save money and NOT go to a mechanic. I am trying to find the source of the problem BEFORE I head in that direction, if it's even needed. I'll go buy another used Honda before I spend big bucks at a mechanic for a repair that could easily cost 3/4 the price of the car. I didn't know that when the car is completely off that the compressor and fan would show no power if the system was low or empty. So, I am going to at least partially refill first before moving on. Thanks for your help.

 

sorry if i came across that way, but i am trying to save you some time/money and additional repairs.

 

Both condensor and radiator fans should come of if AC compressor engages. If neither is engaging, the system pressure is likely low.

A crude way of checking system pressure is to check the hi/lo pressure cut-out switch contacts (near compressor) w/ a Volt-Ohm Meter. If pressure is low, switch will show an open circuit on VOM. Note, this presumes the hi/lo pressure switch is working. It usually is, but they have been known to fail.

If hi/lo pressure switch indicates low/no charge, then Dr D's recommendation is best way to find your leak, unless you want to learn AC repairs,...not an easy place to begin DIY work.

On these older systems, you could have multiple leaks, but you can almost be sure the evaporator/expansion valve connections will be leaking. I've opened up two (1990 & 1994) of these systems and both were leaking.

good luck

 

Thanks to both of you for helping me out. Since having the vehicle I have diagnosed and fixed the TCU problem (refurbed tcu in place), fixed the problem of no washer fluid force (that one was easy), replaced some fuses and disconnected the motor for the grinding auto antenna that refused to go down all the way (no automatic car washes for me!). But, yes, the DIY on the a/c is proving to be work. Thankfully I do have a mechanic in the family who gives me a discount, but it's still more than I want to spend. Hoping I can get some pressure in there to see what the deal is first. I appreciate your suggestions.

 

no problem, sounds like you're sharper than some of the techs i've worked with in the past

 

If you're game, repairing the AC is w/i you capability. Here's what I would suggest to confirm ac system leak and repair.

1) Purchase a set of manifold gauges from Harbor Freight, $65.
2) Add enough refrigerant/oil w/ dye to recharge the system, about 1 can of R134a/oil/dye. If your system is still R12, you will need to plan on retrofitting. If you're still R12, I would jump straight to retrofitting w/ new fittings over R12.
3) Charge/drive for a while to allow the dye to be produced through leaks.
4) Inspect under the hood for leaks. If nothing is apparent, the leaks may all be in the evaporator/expansion valve connections. Compressor shaft seal is a frequent leak site also. Here you should see oil/dye thrown out in a ring around the clutch rotation plane.
5) Repair leaks: compressor will require a new/used compressor. I would not suggest attempting a shaft seal installation. A used compressor will run about $75-$100.
6) Pull evaporator and replace all orings and expansion valve if you are retrofitting to R134a. An expansion valve for R134a is not expensive, < $30. You will also need a replacement receiver/drier, about $20.
7) Assemble system and recharge w/ about two cans (24 oz) of R134a. You will need a vacuum pump (harbor freight or used on ebay). Vacuum for 1/2 hr and recharge. 1st can will go in to provide initial charge, start engine and compressor will engage to pull in remaining charge. check autoacforum.com for guidance/tips on AC repair/charging.

It looks daunting, but I managed my first R12 repair 30 yrs ago when I was given a $500 estimate on a 79 Toyota wagon. It was still cooling when I sold several years later.

Learn this skill and it will pay dividends for a lifetime.

good luck