Replacing inner tie rod on my 92, unclear on how to remove/replace. I understand there is a special tool available but that also it can be accomplished without the special tool. My manual (Chilton) for whatever reason does not include inner tie rod replacement instructions. Searching, I came across this older thread which discusses the process/method but I'm still not confused about it. https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...lacement-3786/ I'm at the point where the photo below is what I'm staring at.
1, First of all, I guess I need to take a hammer and screwdriver and try to unbend that washer and then I guess that's how I get this washer off which will allow me to try to unscrew the tie rod then?
2. The connection point there is right above a crosspiece of the chassis frame, where it seems impossible to try to get a couple of wrenches in there to hold/turn the rod and to loosen it. The flat of the end of the steering shaft there is turned just right where an open-end or adjustable wrench can't slip on. If I turn the steering wheel one way or the other can I get better access?
3. The thread linked above mentions pushing down on the tie rod somehow helps hold the wrench, but I don't get that. I can't even seem to get a wrench on here.
4. My new tie rod didn't come with that washer that I need to try to unbend and remove. So I suppose I need to acquire a new one (special Honda part probably)? If I do get a new washer what's the trick on bending it like that again?
Any tips/suggestions appreciated!

 

Out of order but I will try to answer.


Yes, that washer has to be "unbent". It can be "re-used" as long as you don't "kill it" when unbending. It is the lock that keeps the tie rod from un-screwing on its own.

Attached is a pic showing how it is on there.

Try turning the wheel left or right to get the connection (inner tie rod) to a spot where you can get better/more room.

 

Great. Thanks poorman212. Okay at I seem to have better wrench access now that I've turned the steering. So I've started trying to unbend that washer and making slow progress with the screwdriver and hammer. How far do I need to unbend it anyway, all the way? And it looks as though even if I do get it unbent it doesn't just slide off then, right? I guess once it's unbent it allows you to put a wrench on the flat there, then the washer comes off once you've removed the tie rod?

 

Un-bend it enough to get a wrench on the "flats" it is bent over.....if you get some room on the washer, you might be able to use the open end of the wrench to un-bend it the rest of the way.

It is bent over the "flats" that the wrench goes on....make sense? Look at the new tie rod and you'll see the "flats" I'm talking about.

 

To add, sorry I'll be a bit slow this afternoon but others are online and will be more than happy to help....I have to mow the grass and re-check my t-belt work on the Pilot from last weekend.

 

Okay I'm getting the idea finally. Unbent the washer enough to at least get the 17mm wrench on. Off now to borrow a 22mm wrench. I'm anticipating it'll be tough to get enough leverage to twist the thing loose. thanks again man

 

Do you have the new parts yet? If so, you may have to loosen the joint in the new inner tie rod end a bit.

The joint in my aftermarket unit was so tight that when the alignment technician tred to adjust toe, the entire end uscrewed from the rack.

Ball joint ball and socket joints can be tight as H when you install them, but the inner tie rod ball joint should be loose enough to allow rotation of the outer part without unintentionally unscrewing the end that is screwed into the rack. You should be able to move ball within the joint by hand without getting a hernia.

If needed, you can loosen the joint by putting one end in a vise and, using an impact wrench, spin the other end until the joint loosens up a bit after it's cool. (A bit of advice from someone who's already done it, if you try to loosen the joint with a regular drill, you may spin before the joint does.)

 

Yes. And have just completed installing one of the inner tie rods. Haven't yet bent the washer back yet that I had to unbend.

This inner tie rod was/is tight as you describe. Since you've just mentioned it, I held the 17mm wrench on the ball joint flat to hold it from possibly turning, and took a 14mm wrench and turned the tie rod with that wrench to try to "un-stiffen" it. Seems to have loosened it pretty good, although I still can't really twist the joint shaft by hand. It's loosened enough to where I can twist the shaft easily with a wrench and don't need to hold the flat on the other end with the 17mm wrench. In other words, if I twist/turn the rod with the wrench it doesn't even begin to unintentionally unscrew from rack. So that should be okay, eh? Besides, isn't that what the tabbed washer that I need to bend back supposed to prevent?

For one thing, I have no impact tools, although I suppose if you still feel it would be necessary I could do what you suggest although with a regular drill. Like I've mentioned, though, I do have the joint loosened enough so that when I turn the rod it's not wanting to unscrew out of the rack, so I'm of the feeling it should be fine.

Thanks Tony