I'm troubleshooting a 91 EX starting problem, I originally posted in the DIY section about beep codes.

While troubleshooting I came across these problems which may be helpful to some people.

Panel lamp problems and fixes.
Removed instrument panel and checked Check Engine Lamp with VOM. Fail.
Ohm measurements showed all lamps reading in range 13 - 350 ohms, one was reading open circuit.
Bought pack of Osram 74 bulbs (listed as replacements), these fit the lamp holder but do not fit the instrument panel as the bulbs are greater in diameter and spread the holders.
Removing the lamps from the holders and cleaning them and the holders with rubbing alcohol and a tooth brush brought all the Ohm readings back to 13 Ohms (including the one showing open circuit).
Pre check before reinstalling instrument panel showed only a few lamps operating, further checks showed dry solder joints between the circuit board and connector header. Re-soldered connector, all lamps tested OK.



Current situation.

Check that fuel is reaching the injector manifold. OK
Checked the distributor igniter and coil for voltage and continuity. OK
Rotor turns when engine cranks. OK
Timing light Flash when engine cranks. Fail (Assume no signal from ECU)

After re-install of instrument panel and powering up.
Previously only the charging lamp lit when the ignition was turned on.
Now Check Engine Lamp comes on for about 2 secs and goes out,
Charge lamp and Oil warning light come on also seat belt sign (though seat belts are fastened).
Bridging the diagnostic connector - Check Engine Light ON - no blinks.

Can someone please advise if this is normal for the CEL and next troubleshooting step.

Thanks

Bernard R

 

I've never been able to get those 94 bulbs to fit either...

To use a timing light, depending on the type of light you would clip on the lead to the battery and the other lead onto the cylinder #1 spark plug wire (cylinder on drivers side) and shoot the light at the crank pulley. The second type of light has one lead connected to the batter and the other one plugs into the cylinder #1 connector on the distributor. If you're timing light still won't light up, you may not have any spark. At that point you could take the spark plugs out and set them near the engine block, about 1/4" away, wires still connected of course. When cranked, the spark should jump from the plug to the engine block. You said you check the distributor and coil for continuity, but that still may mean that the cap and rotor may be worn out.

Your CEL light appears to be functioning normally.

 

YES correct,
when there is no code stored and you jumper the diagnostic connector the lite just stays on.

There is a diagnosticpost for NO SPARK in the DIY section.
here's a link;

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/No_...m_52217/tm.htm
I guess the guy might have a clue.......[sm=icon_rofl.gif]

 

You verified no spark and you have power to the ignitor and coil. Replace the distributor cap and rotor, since these are maintenance items anyway. Check that the wires are secure to the ignitor inside of the distributor.

The next two culprits are the ignition control module (aka ignitor) or the coil. Coils can fail and still give the proper resistance. Use the test referenced in hondadude's post to try to determine which one is bad.

 

First, thanks for the replies. In particular the link to the 'No start, No spark...' post was very helpful but also raised other points as the tests didn't quite work as detailed.

The short reply is that I am convinced in my own mind that there is a problem with the distributor and it needs repair. From the tests I could not determine whether the igniter or coil is at fault, however, from the practical viewpoint I can buy a new distributor. with one year guarantee, on ebay cheaper than I could buy an igniter or coil.

Next step, get the engine to TDC and remove the faulty distributor.

Thanks again for all the help and I'll update when the new distributor is installed.

BernardR