The interior blower fan just stopped working. I tried each of the four fan settings, no luck.

I want to check the simple fixes before spending any money on parts and labor.

Back in 2009, I had this same problem. According to my earlier post, the problem was fixed by simply removing the blower motor 40 amp fuse, and then installing the same fuse again.

What is the next step, assuming the blower motor fuse hasn't blown and it's seated properly? I believe there's a fuse for the relay inside the dashboard fuse box; which fuse number is this?

Are there any other fuses that might prevent the fan from working?

Any and all "simple" tests/fixes would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Rob

 

The issue can be with the following:

• blower motor
• heater control panel
• wiring
• blower motor relay (located in under-dash fuse/relay box; less common issue; but, can be faulty)
• fuse (under-hood Fuse No. 17 (30A) and under-dash Fuse No. 8 (7.5A) (less probability it may be the fuses; but, check/re-check them both anyways.)

Note: Do not replace anything else yet. Do some tests to narrow down the area.

There are various tests you can try.

With the ignition turned ON, the positive side (+) of the blower motor wiring is always hot if the blower motor relay is working properly and fuses are good, it just needs the negative ground (-) source through the resistor or heater control panel; the ground sources are controlled by the heater control panel.

1. If you have a voltmeter, at the 2-pin connector for the blower motor, test for battery power (+) with the ignition turned ON. You would disconnect the 2-pin connector from the blower motor. Touch the voltmeter's red lead to the Yel/Blk wire and the voltmeter's black lead to body ground (for example, a metal bracket on the car, etc). With the ignition ON, there should be power/voltage. If there is battery power on the YelBlk wire in this test, it means the fuses, blower motor relay and wiring up on the positive side (+) are good.

Yel/Blk wire is a wire with yellow colored insulation and a black stripe running through it.

2. If you don't have a voltmeter. Disconnect the 2-pin connector from the blower motor. Attach one end of a piece of spare wire to the cavity (where the Blue/Red wire is on the connector). With the connector plugged back in, touch/attach the other end of the wire to a ground source (the other end of the piece of wire touching exposed metal on the car (like a metal bracket). Turn the ignition ON, does the blower motor now run? If the blower motor runs in this test, it also means the fuses, blower motor relay and wiring on the positive side (+) are good.

3. You can also apply direct 12V battery power to the blower motor's Yel/Blk wire and body ground to the blower motor's Blu/Red wire to see if the motor is okay.

 

Often times if the motor is bad, you can test with the car running and the fan speed dial set to high either kick the motor or give it a whack with hammer and block of wood. If it starts working then it is definitely a bad motor. If so, replace it as soon as possible because the increase load due to the drag on a bad motor can heat and cook the connector at the blower motor which, if occurs, means one more thing to fix. Please note that there are times when whacking it wont get it started and it still is a bad motor, so if it does not start don't assume anything.