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My daughter's car. 2000 Accord MIL lit

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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 07:15 PM
  #11  
TexasHonda's Avatar
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Default RE: My daughters car. 2000 Accord MIL lit

Voltage looks good. Check voltage across the ECU input may not tell you anything.

Did you check the resistance of the new O2 sensor. Since you have voltage, you should confirm that O2 sensor resistance is in spec.

I don't think the O2 sensor would be significantly different on the two models, but some vehicles, starting about 2000, used air/fuel ratio sensor, a more sophisticated air/fuel mixture sensor. Make sure your car does not require such a sensor. It usually has more than 4 wires, so probably not.

Remember the code is for the O2 sensor heater, so that circuit is being sensed to have an open or short somewhere.

good luck
 
Old Nov 17, 2008 | 07:48 PM
  #12  
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Default RE: My daughters car. 2000 Accord MIL lit

ORIGINAL: TexasHonda

Voltage looks good. Check voltage across the ECU input may not tell you anything.

Did you check the resistance of the new O2 sensor. Since you have voltage, you should confirm that O2 sensor resistance is in spec.

I don't think the O2 sensor would be significantly different on the two models, but some vehicles, starting about 2000, used air/fuel ratio sensor, a more sophisticated air/fuel mixture sensor. Make sure your car does not require such a sensor. It usually has more than 4 wires, so probably not.

Remember the code is for the O2 sensor heater, so that circuit is being sensed to have an open or short somewhere.

good luck
No, it's a 4-wire sensor. Here again is what I get when I check across the two pins for the heater sensor circuit (checking the sensor heater itself): With my DVOM set to 200 ohms, I get a momentary(<1 second) indication of about 150 ohms, then open circuit. I've been told I should get about 30 or 40 ohms steady on the heater circuit.
 
Old Nov 21, 2008 | 01:55 PM
  #13  
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Default RE: My daughters car. 2000 Accord MIL lit

UPDATE: I went through troubleshooting procedures and was getting to the point to where I was sure I had a bad PCM. I put everything back together one last time & the code was cleared! All I can figure is that there was a bit of oxidation on one of the connector pins at the PCM and disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors must have "wiped" the oxidation off. Thanks everyone for the help!
 
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