So after many hours trying to diagnose where the oil was leaking from, I got the head off, well the P.O. did not torque the head either at all or to spec.. I got eh torque wrench set at 40lb and planned to check the bolts 5lbs at a time til I found what they were torqued too. right off the bat the center bolts were at 40ish and the outer ones were at 60 at the most, that was the first problem, after taking the exhaust and intake off and the head pulled the valves in #2 literally moved 1/8". So I took it to the machine shop, upon the machinist's inspection not only are the seals toast, but the guides as well, So I will have to get the head completely rebuilt basically, I guess its good that the oil leak happened otherwise my motor would be toast.
260k on the clock, Now it will have new timing belt, water pump, tensioner belt, master/slave cylinder, completely rebuilt head, new plugs, new plug wires. So hopefully I will get another 250k+ out of this motor.. I have been taking pics as well just for my future records

BTW I got my complete Head Gasket kit for 30+ shipping They only have a few but I bought them here and they are the good ones.. OEM!!
"http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php" and search this part number 0322863

 

Is there anything else that I should check/replace while the head is off, I checked the rings, and they are good. Oil sender(?) looks good, dont know if thats something that needs replacing in intervals, thanks

 

The oil sending unit is pretty cheap from the dealership. You don't have to replace it if it is not leaking. Access will be very easy with the head removed. It is really up to you.

The torque for that sending unit is 13 ft-lb. I soaked up the oil in the the threads of the block with a rag. Used a bit of RTV on the threads. There is a special sending unit socket that you can use so you don't damage the crimped metal/plastic connection.

 

Thank you! I figured I prolly should leave it since it's not leaking..

 

Deal of the year!