Need normal voltage reading for O2 sensor so I can build resistor

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#11

08-10-2018, 10:43 AM

The Toecutter

Been Around A Long Time Member

Join Date: Feb 2016

Location: Kimball MI

Posts: 1,572

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pamelas98accordlx

the front one is plugged in, I cleaned the IAC valve due to unusual idling, with spikes in rpms ranging from 1200 to 2400, that seems to have calmed it down. I also replaced the VTEC solenoid gasket which has stopped my oil leak completely it seems. I still have one or 2 hoses that will need replacing due to prolonged exposure to oil. Is a knock sensor a neccesity? My car is weak as a kitten, & often times I'm only idling at 400 rpm. It causes my headlights to dim at night & so on. I can see the voltage made by alternator rarely drops below 14, so I'm pretty sure it isn't the alternator.

I believe the knock sensor is needed for the ECU to either advance and or retard the ignition timing.
When you replaced the IAC valve, did you do a "relearn" on it? If not, you should. You can also manually adjust it with a screw driver, but you shouldn't have to. Keep in mind that the middle mark on the tach between 0 and 1000 rpm is 750 rpm (it goes 0, 250, 750, then 1000). That's the warm idle engine speed with the lights and AC off.

#12

08-11-2018, 04:43 PM

Pamelas98accordlx

Thread Starter

Join Date: Apr 2018

Location: Clemson, Sc

Posts: 8

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Toecutter

yeah, I know about the rpm, it nearly choked out idling so low, but not now, I didn't replace the IAC valve, just cleaned it. It seems to be doing a little better, but I'm gonna have to replace the knock sensor. I have 1 more small hose that needs replacing, but I should be able to do that tonight. I'm gonna try to get the knock sensor replaced tonight too.