Hey folks,

I've got a 1996 4 cyl Accord EX V-tech with 176k miles. It's been sitting for a while, but until recently it would start right up. It's got a brand new battery (hrs old), starter with only about 4k miles on it. When I put it up I put Stabil in the gas (still has 1/4 tank). A few days ago it was hard to start and I actually had to use my jump box after trying to start so many times. Once I got it started, it ran fine for about 1/2 hr around the neighborhood. Next time, hard to start, but ran fine for another 1/2 hr. Now it won't start at all. I've put in a new PCV and tried beating on the starter, still no luck. Starter spins, but tach doesn't move at all when I try to start it. I'd appreciate any thoughts.

Thanks,
Steve

 

Suggest attempting to start w/ 10 secs of throttle body cleaner or starter fluid into intake duct.

If engine starts and runs briefly, spark is good and problem is fuel delivery; main fuel relay, fuel pump, fuel filter, etc.

If engine will not start, then spark problem is likely; faulty spark timing sensors, bad spark plug wires, spark plugs, or possibly faulty ignition switch assy.

Try the start test and report results.

good luck

 

After looking thru a few yt vids I decided to check the other end. I couldn't get the banjo bolt loose on the fuel filter so I went for the nut at the end of the injector rail. Fuel spilled out at first, but I wiped it down, put a towel around it and then turned the ignition on. No noise and no spray of fuel. Since this didn't start to be a real problem until it got into the 90's, I'm thinking the main relay - there's a few vids on cracked solder joints. Any other thoughts?

 

Is the CEL on?

If the starter is spinning the engine at normal speed and the tach is not moving....I'd check for spark on all of the cyl's.

 

Wow....I'm way slow at typing

 

No CEL, I can hear/feel the relay clicking when key goes to/from "on" position and did see any cracked solder joints. Know that's not definitive, but a start - will have to find how to test with multimeter. I'll get some starter fluid tomorrow.

 

Hey Texas and Poorman,

Thanks for the replies. Tried the starter fluid and the engine turned over, but died. The fuel filter is fairly new. I cracked the bolt at the end of the rail (closest to the filter) and fuel sprayed out. I think I'll have to get a fuel pressure tester.

 

Do you hear the fuel pump hum when you turn the key to the on position? Should last for a couple of seconds. If not then suspect the PGM-FI relay. They typical fail or rear their ugly head when it is HOT out. I have encounter this many times over the years. I am not a fan of throwing parts at cars, but here is what I recommend. Are you planning on keeping the car? If yes and it has never been replaced, replace it. They fail overtime and are one of those items that will need to be/should replaced over the life of the car. Also, I recommend using the service port bolt on the rail to see if there is fuel rather then cracking the banjo. Good luck.

 

Main fuel relay is prime culprit for this type of failures. Since problem is intermittent, the testing can be confusing. Also remember that fuel pump only runs about 3 secs and goes off when keyswitch is turned to On, but not Start.

Suggest listening carefully for fuel pump buzz each time you start (everything in car Off for better hearing). Turn keyswitch to On and fuel pump should run for 3 secs and go off. If you don't hear the sound, no-start is almost certain.

good luck