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not even sure where to start (water damage)

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  #11  
Old 06-30-2012, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by poorman212
If the wires are OE, IMO those last almost forever. That is why I posted to "test/inspect" them. Again just my two cents.
the wires look fine, the plugs might be ok, i wont really know till i pull them out, the waterr level inside the engine bay just got up to about the heat shield on the headers. so im honestly not sure what could have happend, for sure the starter was under water, but for how long i couldnt tell you.
 
  #12  
Old 06-30-2012, 12:19 PM
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I would change the oil and the transmission fluid. Use Honda ATF for the transmission fluid.
 
  #13  
Old 07-01-2012, 08:51 PM
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id agree with that, you can never cause any problems by changing the fluids. And who knows you might be able to prevent issues IF water did get in somehow. Water is devious, it gets places that you never knew it could get... and its much less viscous than oil so it might penetrate seals that oil couldn't.

Are there any other issues you are experiencing other than just longer than average start up time? is it really 3-5 seconds of cranking? Change your plugs and your rotor and cap. the rotor can cap has a drain on the underside to expel fluids, its possible somehow moisture got in there.
 
  #14  
Old 07-02-2012, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Silver6gen
id agree with that, you can never cause any problems by changing the fluids. And who knows you might be able to prevent issues IF water did get in somehow. Water is devious, it gets places that you never knew it could get... and its much less viscous than oil so it might penetrate seals that oil couldn't.

Are there any other issues you are experiencing other than just longer than average start up time? is it really 3-5 seconds of cranking? Change your plugs and your rotor and cap. the rotor can cap has a drain on the underside to expel fluids, its possible somehow moisture got in there.
really it's just the crappy start up time, the 3-5 second crank happens in park, the exception is when i put the key in II position, let the check engine light do a bulb check then start the car, if i let the CEL do it's check then start it, it starts up right away, if i put it in neutral, it starts up right away. i dunno the whole thing confuses me
 
  #15  
Old 07-02-2012, 11:24 AM
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With that much water getting in the car my main concern wouldn't be getting stranded, but rather that you're going to end up with mold in the car. With young kids that could be a horrible thing. Even though it dried quickly, I'd take it somewhere to have it looked at. You can likely have it done for free. Even if you have to pay a bit to have it checked out, the peace of mind is worth it.
 
  #16  
Old 07-02-2012, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Steven Perron
really it's just the crappy start up time, the 3-5 second crank happens in park, the exception is when i put the key in II position, let the check engine light do a bulb check then start the car, if i let the CEL do it's check then start it, it starts up right away, if i put it in neutral, it starts up right away. i dunno the whole thing confuses me
Sounds fuel related. When you click your key over to the II (on) position and wait for the bulb check to do its thing you are also allowing the fuel pump to prime the line and fuel rail with pressure. Just in a measure to be gentle on my car I typically let my fuel pump spin up and stop before starting my car. Maybe I’m just being **** but it’s just my personal preference. You can check your fuel pressure if it really bothers you.
 
  #17  
Old 07-02-2012, 11:37 AM
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i just gotta find out if the car will make it another 2k miles.
 
  #18  
Old 07-02-2012, 01:26 PM
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it'll probably go another 50k miles. Just change your fluids and I'd think you'd be fine
 
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