Odds and Ends Issues
So I bought this car about a month and I've been studying the service manual like its my job. I got a lot of stuff fixed but its my first import and I can't figure a few little things out.
1. Timing Belt is too tight (it whines, it's not a drive belt). I want to adjust it with the adjusting nut but it says I have to turn the crankshaft pulley while holding the adjustment nut still. Can't I just hold the crankshaft pulley from moving and then loosen the adjustment nut then tighten the adjustment nut to 33 lbs without turning the crankshaft pulley?
2. ANSWERED (Thank you PAhonda) -- Found them all on the dealership site PAhonda linked. I also found some other part numbers from parts stores (looks like only the dealership has the D4 light -- I couldn't find it anywhere else)
Looking for some instrument panel bulbs.
I found these three part numbers:
Instrument-General Light Bulb Size: 74 or PC195NA or PC37
Bulb 74 fits the twist lock (not the D4 socket like I previously read) for the CEL, SES and Blinker Lights.
3. ANSWERED (Thank you PAhonda) - Disassembled Combination Switch and cleaned contacts; works fine now.
The blinkers takes about 5-10 seconds (the left one a little longer than the right) to turn on but the hazards work. After the blinkers take a few seconds to "warm up" and they do work it makes the click and the turn signals flash but the dash does not. However, when the hazards are on the turn signals and dash light up right away.
**I fixed the blinkers by removing the combination switch and disassembling/cleaning the terminals inside. They now work instantly.
There is also a cut/not connected ground in the engine bay but don't know where it went to. One side was connected on the drivers side next to/below the strut tower (about two inches towards the front bumper and 4 inches towards the ground).
I can get a picture when it stops snowing if needed.
The service manual had an awful picture for grounds.
I know it's a long post with a lot of different questions but I really appreciate any help.
Thank you
1. Timing Belt is too tight (it whines, it's not a drive belt). I want to adjust it with the adjusting nut but it says I have to turn the crankshaft pulley while holding the adjustment nut still. Can't I just hold the crankshaft pulley from moving and then loosen the adjustment nut then tighten the adjustment nut to 33 lbs without turning the crankshaft pulley?
2. ANSWERED (Thank you PAhonda) -- Found them all on the dealership site PAhonda linked. I also found some other part numbers from parts stores (looks like only the dealership has the D4 light -- I couldn't find it anywhere else)
Looking for some instrument panel bulbs.
I found these three part numbers:
Instrument-General Light Bulb Size: 74 or PC195NA or PC37
Bulb 74 fits the twist lock (not the D4 socket like I previously read) for the CEL, SES and Blinker Lights.
3. ANSWERED (Thank you PAhonda) - Disassembled Combination Switch and cleaned contacts; works fine now.
The blinkers takes about 5-10 seconds (the left one a little longer than the right) to turn on but the hazards work. After the blinkers take a few seconds to "warm up" and they do work it makes the click and the turn signals flash but the dash does not. However, when the hazards are on the turn signals and dash light up right away.
**I fixed the blinkers by removing the combination switch and disassembling/cleaning the terminals inside. They now work instantly.
There is also a cut/not connected ground in the engine bay but don't know where it went to. One side was connected on the drivers side next to/below the strut tower (about two inches towards the front bumper and 4 inches towards the ground).
I can get a picture when it stops snowing if needed.
The service manual had an awful picture for grounds.
I know it's a long post with a lot of different questions but I really appreciate any help.
Thank you
Last edited by Genhero; Dec 7, 2011 at 09:31 AM.
If you go to an OEM parts site like majestic honda or hondapartsnow.com, you can look up the OEM part numbers for the bulbs. You may be able to cross-reference them with the aftermarket bulb. you may want to order them from the dealership.
The blinker is a tough call. Do the hazards work properly? The ground that I would unbolt and clean with a small wire brush is right below the bumper for the lights.
I would also consider the combination switch or the hazard switch if the hazards work properly. You can find these at a junkyard for pretty cheap, so you don't waste money throwing parts at the car.
You might want to post a picture of the ground that was cut in the engine bay.
The blinker is a tough call. Do the hazards work properly? The ground that I would unbolt and clean with a small wire brush is right below the bumper for the lights.
I would also consider the combination switch or the hazard switch if the hazards work properly. You can find these at a junkyard for pretty cheap, so you don't waste money throwing parts at the car.
You might want to post a picture of the ground that was cut in the engine bay.
Do you know when the timing belt was changed? The noise could be a tensioner going out or possibly the water pump.
TexasHonda posted something about a pivot on one of the tensioners that can be easily overlooked. I think that is posted in the DIY section. That could make noise.
If you go to the ericthecarguy website, he shows how to replace a timing belt on a civic with the engine removed. He shows how he tensions the belt towards the end. That procedure will be the same on an accord engine.
If you decide to change the timing belt, he also sells a video with the step by step procedure for around $10 and would definitely be worth the investment on how to do this.
TexasHonda posted something about a pivot on one of the tensioners that can be easily overlooked. I think that is posted in the DIY section. That could make noise.
If you go to the ericthecarguy website, he shows how to replace a timing belt on a civic with the engine removed. He shows how he tensions the belt towards the end. That procedure will be the same on an accord engine.
If you decide to change the timing belt, he also sells a video with the step by step procedure for around $10 and would definitely be worth the investment on how to do this.
PAHonda, the hazards work. Looks like the is the Combination Switch.
I checked those sites but they didn't have bulbs on them -- I'll keep looking. (Edit) Finally found the bulbs.
I've watched ericthecarguys videos before. I'm pretty sure I can change the timing belt if needed but the previous owner said he did it (although it turns out he lied about a lot of things). Sometimes I also hear what sounds like a bell from near the timing cover when it is revved. I was going to wait until I drove it back home to do it since I don't have a garage here. The coolant looks brand new though and the timing belt cover looks mangled so it makes me think he actually did do it and the water pump like he said. Especially since the trans fluid was gross, so he wouldn't have changed the coolant unless he had a reason. Either way, I'll look for that video to watch for how to adjust it.
I checked those sites but they didn't have bulbs on them -- I'll keep looking. (Edit) Finally found the bulbs.
I've watched ericthecarguys videos before. I'm pretty sure I can change the timing belt if needed but the previous owner said he did it (although it turns out he lied about a lot of things). Sometimes I also hear what sounds like a bell from near the timing cover when it is revved. I was going to wait until I drove it back home to do it since I don't have a garage here. The coolant looks brand new though and the timing belt cover looks mangled so it makes me think he actually did do it and the water pump like he said. Especially since the trans fluid was gross, so he wouldn't have changed the coolant unless he had a reason. Either way, I'll look for that video to watch for how to adjust it.
Last edited by Genhero; Nov 30, 2011 at 05:22 AM.
For tensioning the T-belt, one thing that can trip you up is the valve springs. Imagine if the belt was removed, and you were turning the camshaft. The valve springs give the camshaft a kind of cogging motion where it wants to spring ahead. If you're at one of those points, then it's possible when you loosen the tensioner nut the camshaft will rotate forwards unexpectedly & even skip a tooth.
I think that can be handled with a wrench on the camshaft bolt as well as the crankshaft. If you're aware this might happen then you'll be ready for it.
The ringing sound...
That reminds me of one time my alternator bearings went bad. Not sure what it was, maybe those air impeller blades attached to the alternator pulley make a kind of ringing sound. Run the engine after removing the alternator belt to confirm or rule-out the alternator as the source of that noise.
I think that can be handled with a wrench on the camshaft bolt as well as the crankshaft. If you're aware this might happen then you'll be ready for it.
The ringing sound...
That reminds me of one time my alternator bearings went bad. Not sure what it was, maybe those air impeller blades attached to the alternator pulley make a kind of ringing sound. Run the engine after removing the alternator belt to confirm or rule-out the alternator as the source of that noise.
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