1989 Accord LXi FI: Changed the oil pan gasket three times but leak finds it way. Had the PCValve also changed and helped the situation for a while, then oil pan gasket leaking again. There is no case of overfillling or anything like that. What if I put the high temp seal outside the oil pan to stop any leaks that are finding their way from the oil pan. Any views, Thanks!

 

Make sure when you do it that you clean both the oil pan and the motor surfaces extremely well, be carefull not to scratch them though... when ALL of the gasket is removed from both surfaces put a very thin film on both sides of the gasket with some high temp RTV and re-install everything, make certain that the gasket is lined up correctly and that your oil pan isn't dented, bent or warped and you should be good to go, let it sit for a few hours to make sure it all cures properly, follow the instructions on the high temp gasket stuff for cure times

 

Also, Don't overtighten the bolts or it's going to screw it all up, make sure you use the required amount of torque

 

And make sure all the little steel rings from the old gasket are not stuck to the studs. They're easy to miss.

 

Hopefully I'm not hijacking this thread.

How long should this job take a DIY'ron a 92? (I have a 1/4" air ratchet.)

Anything in particular I should be on the look-out for in this year Accord?

Any real need for Honda OEM, or is aftermarket acceptable?

Thnaks

 

Tony ,, job should take about 30-45 minutes , I would use Only Honda oil pan gasket ,, it only costs about 25-26 dollars, also get some Honda bond or equivalent.. BUT contrary to what people say DO NOT use it on the flat surface of the gasket ,( long sides ) use it on both shorter sides and apply a very small amount, ,, what I have done for many years is to get some 3m spray adhesive, spray some on the block and on the mating ( long sides ) of the gasket, apply honda bond on the other 2 sides,, stick the gasket up on the block, apply honda bond on the oil pan shrter sides as well . install the pan, and as it was adviced DO NOT overtighten the bolt and nuts ..
to remove the oil pan is pretty simple, remove the frt exh pipe 6, 14 mm nuts and 2 ,12 mm nuts, remove the frt cross beam 5 or 6 14 mm bolts . ( flywheel , torque conv cover ) and you are there ,,

 

Tony.....Ricj ............I just wrote a How to .. go to our DIY section for step by step instruction

89 acc is basically the same thing, there is just the breather tube to worry about at the rear of the oil pan . otherwise follow the directions ..you might want to remove the frt splash shield for easier access to pan bolts

 

Desert,
I'll be doing this job within a couple of weeks. Do you want a few photos for your DIY procedure? (I'd take a bunch and you could just select the ones you want.)