Hi all. Been through the searches on the forums, but I cant really find anything that I can use (or just cant understand lol).

My biggest issue is the oil spray. I had a pretty bad leak (was slow at first, had some issues with the pcv and fixed it.), but was starting to get bad (losing about 3 quarts in less than a week). Thought it was just my oil pan gasket, so I put a new one on yesterday. It didn't leak anymore over night. Didn't test drive until today. Got about four blocks away to gas station and noticed smoke under hood. Opened up and saw the smoke coming off engine, along with spray up from under passenger side. Looked under to see a good sized puddle of oil starting to accumulate. Any idea on what to check next would be helpful.

I also have a charging issue. As in I have to sit for anywhere from 5 minutes to an hour before the D4 light kicks on and I can start it. Its gotten to the point where its killing my battery every time I want to start it. While the oil is the bigger of the issues, any help on this issue would be appreciated as well.

96 Accord 2.2l Vtech auto

 

Two points come to mind for the oil leak.

There is the vtec solenoid -pass side, back side of the head. There are two orings that seal it.....one or both could be bad.

Back side of the block, above the oil filter is the oil pressure sending unit.

We can get into the other once we can keep oil in the engine when it is running

 

Ok, its the solenoid. Charged it enough to turn it over and I can see the oil leaking from there. I'll pull it off here once the engine cools and take a look at the orings just to be sure thats it. Thanks for that!

 

Thanks poorman212! Took off the top of the solenoid to find the oring broke in a few places. Put some rtv on it and it works like a charm. No more oil leak at all! Just got to burn off whats already on the engine and that part will be good.

But now I have to get the charging issue fixed. It took me about 2.5 hours to get enough of a charge to start it. I would let it sit till the D4 light came on, but it killed my battery. So I would get a jump only to have to start all over again since the battery had died. Ive tested the ignition coil with a digital multimeter and both checks came back fine, so that's not it. I've also had the battery checked, and its fine. I've had to resort to once having it started, not turning the key off when I park for less than 5-10 minutes. Everything else I've checked (forums and such) point towards the ECM. But thats a pricey fix. Any ideas before I start hunting pick and pulls? lol

 

Just tried doing the "soldering the main relay" to no avail. Going to test the relay itself tomorrow to see if that's the issue. more details as they come.

 

Hate to say it but once the upper goes...the lower isn't that far behind.

For the other issue - please check the battery connections and where the ground cable connects to the body and trans to be sure they are clean and tight.

 

A charging problem implies you have a bad battery/starter.

Check car-part.com to get an idea of prices for PCMs at nearby junkyards. You may also try a u-pull-it junkyard. You would need a 96 or 97 PCM from an EX accord with an automatic transmission.

 

Sorry about the delay, work and such had me busy. Took the relay off and tested it, everything came back fine on it. Followed the haynes to test everything else, found the black/yellow wire on the connector to the relay has no power (out to fuel pump). Ran the codes to see if I could maybe pinpoint why, but all that came back were: 18-h02s primary may be bad, and 48-high pressure system. I dont think either of these could be the issue. Thinking something has to be holding back the voltage to lock the relay to enable to fuel pump. may try testing the evap purge canister and the fuel injectors, but I feel like I'm running around in circles lol.

 

If you are not getting power out of the relay, you need to check the inputs to it and see what is missing.

Main Relay Fix, Troubleshooting (Honda, Acura) and how to solder

Scroll about 3/4 of the way down and there is a "drawing" of the relay.

 

OK, I had already done all those. Good call though. Thanks to this page MOTOR Magazine Article | MOTOR Information Systems, I have narrowed it down to a bad ecm Now comes the fun part of finding another one. Thanks again for all of your help! You have been great!