I have a 2010 Accord Crosstour EX-L. Front wheel drive, automatic transmission. I just recently purchased it for my daughter and it's had a rough past. Ever since we got it, it's had an issue with the battery draining. My initial investigation led me to remove an aftermarket alarm system and a GPS tracker from the car. The problem was greatly reduced after that, and for several weeks I thought it was fixed.

Now it seems to be happening again, and I think I have narrowed down the conditions it happens in. If the car is parked outside, it's always locked and the problem never happens. If it is parked inside our garage, sometimes the doors are left unlocked and that's when the battery can drain.

Testing amp draw with my meter shows that when you lock the doors, it drops down to about 24 milliamps. When you leave the doors unlocked it seems like something is staying active and current draw is around 200 milliamps. I tracked that current draw down to the infamous "back up" fuse 20 in the fuse box under the hood. I know this runs the door locks, stereo, and a ton of other stuff.

Any advice for tracking down what specifically might be causing the issue, other than taking door panels off and unplugging locks and windows and whatever else until I find it?

Some other information that may or may not be relevant - there is something wrong with the lock cylinder for the driver's door. The key starts the engine fine and the buttons lock and unlock the doors as they should, but the key does not go into the lock cylinder on the door. It goes partially in but does not turn. I bought the car this way so I don't know the history of this issue.

 

It may be an issue with the Driver’s Door Lock Actuator/**** Switch or the Door Key Cylinder Switch (which are parts of the door lock actuator assembly). A faulty door lock actuator/**** switch can cause the multiplex system to not go into sleep mode.

See my post #4 in this other thread: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...05/#post356962

 

Thanks redbull-1.

So I did some more detective work today. I found the drain goes away if I unplug the power window switches from the driver's door. Does this indicate a problem with the switch assembly, or could it be something else? If it could be something else, what should I check?

Hmmm, this sounds like EXACTLY the same issue I have:

https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/...switch.553960/

I wonder if I just need to go to a Honda dealer at this point?