Thanks again. PAhonda: I suppose due to the economy lots of us try to do our own work, it is the information/knowledge we seek. We are all NOT mechanics and I might venture to guess that some of us are a little desperate. Me, I have two other trucks (BKOs) to use, so I'm not walking - gas hogs! I love my 95 accord, this is the first time I have had a problem that is dumbfounding. The trouble here; when you find the right thread, the exact solution is not really explained. I am glad I found this forum, and still hoping that I can get these $@%&*$@$ windows working. Yunno? Tried Searching, hoping that someone else had the identical problem. No luck. Now, I am looking at the grounding in the drivers door switch block. Thanks for the JPG. Ciao, I mean Si-anara.

 

One of the frustrating things on this type of board, is when people make several suggestions about what to check & how to fix the problem. Then the original poster NEVER comes back. Or he just says "thanks, I got it fixed" but doesn't explain HOW he fixed it. For myself anyway, I try to thank the people who actually come back & explain the fix.

 

I posted this in another thread. Figured I would duplicate it here...
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If my memory is correct there are two ground wires connecting the drivers door window switch block to the chassis. One ground wire is for the drivers window. The other ground wire is for the other 3 windows and is connected through that "window disable" switch.

When the switch is engaged all the windows work... when the switch is flipped the ground is disconnected and only the driver's window works.

I did the work on my windows over a year ago so this is as best i can remember. Hope it helps...

 

So... I guess if that "other-3" ground wire is broken, then the other windows won't work regardless of the switch position?

Thats helpful information - thanks.

 

1995 LX, 150K. Fix for "WINDOWS NOT WORKING". The connector fell out of the window control unit, driver's side. Allow me to explain: I "armed" myself with as much information as possible, this website and the manual. I checked the obvious first, fuses, any damage to electrical components. Fuses were checked out, I pulled each one and checked with the volt-ohm meter. Sometimes they can blow and not show it. So I "bit the bullet" (take the bull by the horns - yunno?) and pulled the door panel. This kind of work is a PITA (pain in the.. ), carefully I removed the screws, one up near the mirror, one in the little pit in the armrest area and one behind the door handle. Once feeling some looseness, pry off the panel, popping out the plastic clips around the bottom. Lift up and loosen the panel, there are wires and clips/harness' that prevent the panel from pulling away. Often easier with another person to hold the panel, I did it myself, didn't cuss once.

I saw right away that the main WCU plug had fallen out, probably due to road vibration. It looked as though someone else had been behind the panel, the plastic cover was gone, and a few tie clips were broken. When pushing the connector back in, I noticed that part of it was slightly damaged. It would not slide back in easily. Apparently "Joe Blow" (no offense to any Joe Blows) could not get it back in and messed it up. There are actually two clips that you must push in (two fingers) as you slide the connector.

Should have taken a photo, but basically it was someone else's work that caused the windows to fail. Thanks to this forum, I was able go into it, without feeling totally "up S**t creek without a paddle". Ever felt that way?