While redbull is catching up....I only want to add one stupid idea. Could it be possible the both the cooling fan and power window relay are bad? In your first post you stated that you were having an issue with the cooling fan.....and then you swapped the cooling fan and power window relay and the windows still don't wotk.

Trust me I hate electrical.

Test the relay(s) and input. I hope this pic will help - sorry the manual I have for the 4th gen....sucks.

Pull the relay - check for continuity between "C" and "D" pins on the relay....is it there?

Apply power and ground to the same pins. Power to "C" and ground to "D" - check for continuity between "A" and "B"? Is it there?

Translate where pins "C" and "D" plug into the fuse box. With the key on - check those for power or ground. One should have power, one should have continuity to ground.

 

I will go check those as soon as i can to rule that out as an issues or solve things if it is.

 

There's different ways to go about testing things; but, here are a few ways if you're willing to try.

Power windows:
1. Remove power window relay, turn ignition ON. With black lead from voltmeter touching chassis/body metal ground, use red lead from voltmeter to check voltage where the window relay was located in the under-hood fuse/relay box. (You are checking whether power is coming through the Yellow/Grn wire from the Integrated Control Unit (ICU) to where the relay is.)

Alternative to check whether power is coming from Integrated Control Unit (Located in the under-dash fuse/relay box). At the ICU, with a backprobe at the Yellow/Grn wire at the 16-P Green connector (C403 connector), turn ignition ON. Touch black lead to chassis ground, and red lead to backprobe at Yellow/Grn wire, is there voltage?

Backprobing is either using a backprobe set or using a thin needle or something and making contact with the metal terminal of the connector without piercing the wire in the back of the still connected connector. Be very careful not to damage the wiring.

2. If there is power coming in to where the relay is, then test the relay (or you can always test the relay before).

Fuse 1 power to gauges, motorized seatbelts, etc.:
1. With ignition ON; with the voltmeter, check for power on both sides of Fuse No. 1 in the under-dash fuse box.

2. Check that the 18-P Grey connector (C751 connector is located in the front of fuse box) and the 12-P Brown connector (C502 connector is located in the back of the fuse box) are firmly plugged into the under-dash fuse box. – If they were loose, this may take care of a few problems.

3. With a backprobe at the Yellow wire at the C751 connector, check for voltage with ignition turn ON. (Like the other steps, black lead touching chassis ground). – This to check for power going to the gauges.

4. If you can get to it, with a backprobe at the Yellow wire at the C502 connector, check for voltage with ignition turned ON. – This is to check power going to automatic shoulder seat belt control unit.

Radio:
1. With a backprobe at the Yel/Red wire at the C751 connector, check for voltage with ignition turned ON.

Radiator Fan:
1. Disconnect the green 2-P connector from Fan Switch A (located on thermostat housing – lower radiator hose). Use a small paper clip or wire to jump the 2-P connector. With ignition ON, does the radiator fan run?

2. Test radiator fan relay.

3. Test radiator fan motor directly with 12V battery power and ground.

 

well did you figure it out or not buddy i really need to know lol cause we are having the same problem here